Sleeping in a Royal Palace: Khaplu Palace, Shigar Fort and Altit in Gilgit-Baltistan

Three restored royal buildings in Baltistan and Hunza now take overnight guests. Here is what each one is like, how to reach it from Skardu or Karimabad, and how to fit them into one northern trip.

Why stay in a fort instead of a hotel in town

Most visitors to Gilgit-Baltistan sleep in Skardu or Karimabad and see the old forts on a day trip. A small number of the region's royal buildings have been carefully restored and now take overnight guests, which changes the experience completely. You get the courtyards at sunrise, the carved wooden balconies after the day visitors leave, and a quiet evening in a village that most tourists only drive through.

The three names that come up most often are Khaplu Palace in the Ghanche district, Shigar Fort in Shigar Valley, and the residence beside Altit Fort in Hunza. All three were restored by the Aga Khan Cultural Service Pakistan, part of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, using traditional Balti and Hunza building methods with timber, stone and mud. They are working heritage sites first and hotels second, so expect character and history rather than a large modern resort.

Khaplu Palace: the royal house of the Yabgo rajas

Khaplu Palace, known locally as Yabgo Khar, was built in 1840 by Yabgo Raja Daulat Ali Khan of Khaplu and served as the royal residence of the area. It sits on the upper side of Khaplu town, above the Shyok River, with mountain walls on every side. The building mixes Balti, Tibetan and Kashmiri influences, and its four-storey timber structure with a carved wooden balcony is one of the most photographed buildings in Baltistan.

Restoration ran from 2005 to 2011, and the project went on to receive a UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation. Part of the palace is now a museum on Baltistan's history and culture, and the surrounding residential buildings were converted into guest rooms. A small number of rooms are inside the palace itself, so if sleeping in the historic building matters to you, ask about it when you book.

Khaplu is the quieter choice of the three. Use it as a base for the old Chaqchan Mosque, the orchards and villages along the Shyok, and the road towards the Hushe Valley, the starting point for treks into the Masherbrum area.

Shigar Fort: the palace on the rock

Shigar Fort is locally called Fong Khar, which means the palace on the rock. It was built in the early 17th century by Raja Hassan Khan, the 20th ruler of the Amacha dynasty, against a huge boulder at the edge of the Shigar stream. The rajas ruled Shigar from here for generations.

The fort was restored between 1999 and 2004 and won a UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Award in 2006. It now combines a museum of Balti woodwork and royal objects with guest rooms in the old fort and in restored village houses around its garden.

Shigar sits roughly 30 kilometres from Skardu, around an hour by road, at about 2,250 metres. That makes it the easiest of the three to add to a Skardu itinerary. Shigar is also on the way towards Askole and the Baltoro Glacier route to K2, so many trekking groups pass through. Nearby, the restored Khilingrong Mosque is worth a short walk.

Altit: Hunza's oldest fort

Altit Fort, on a cliff above the Hunza River a short drive from Karimabad, is one of the oldest buildings in the valley. It was conserved by the same Aga Khan programme that restored Baltit Fort in Karimabad. Today Altit is a museum and the centre of a living village, with the royal garden and old lanes restored alongside it.

A small heritage residence beside the fort lets you stay in old Altit rather than in the busier hotel strip of Karimabad and Aliabad. It suits travellers who want quiet evenings, walks through the old village, and sunrise views of the Hunza peaks.

How to fit them into one trip

Shigar and Khaplu are both reached from Skardu, but in different directions. Shigar lies north of Skardu up the Shigar Valley, while Khaplu lies east along the Shyok River. A simple plan is to fly or drive to Skardu, spend a night or two at Shigar, return through Skardu, then continue to Khaplu for two nights. Allow extra time on the roads, because mountain driving is slower than the distance suggests.

Altit is in Hunza, on the other side of the region, reached by the Karakoram Highway through Gilgit. If you want all three, plan Hunza and Baltistan as two separate parts of the same trip rather than trying to cross between them quickly.

Flights to Skardu depend on the weather, so keep a spare day at the end of a Baltistan trip. Heritage properties have a limited number of rooms, which means the summer season and long weekends fill early. Book first, then build your days around the dates you get.

When to go and what to expect

Late spring to early autumn is the main season for Baltistan and Hunza. Spring brings apricot blossom to the villages, while autumn brings golden poplars and clearer skies. Winters are very cold, and some services reduce or close, so check before planning a winter stay.

These are old buildings with low doorways, steep wooden stairs and thick walls. That is part of the charm, but tell the property in advance if anyone in your group has mobility needs. Dress modestly in the villages, ask before photographing people, and remember that the museums inside the forts are part of the local community's history.

Questions, answered

Can you stay inside Khaplu Palace?

Yes. After its restoration, part of the palace became a museum and the palace and surrounding buildings were converted into guest rooms. Only a few rooms are inside the historic palace itself, so ask for one when you book.

How far is Shigar Fort from Skardu?

Shigar Fort is roughly 30 kilometres from Skardu, which usually takes around an hour by road. It is the easiest heritage stay to add to a Skardu trip.

Who restored these forts?

Khaplu Palace, Shigar Fort, Altit Fort and Baltit Fort were all restored by the Aga Khan Cultural Service Pakistan, part of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. Khaplu and Shigar both received UNESCO Asia-Pacific heritage conservation awards.

What is the best time to stay in a Baltistan fort?

Late spring to early autumn. Spring brings apricot blossom and autumn brings golden poplars. Winters are very cold and some services reduce, so check before booking a winter stay.

Can I visit Khaplu, Shigar and Altit on one trip?

Yes, but plan Baltistan and Hunza as two separate legs. Shigar and Khaplu are both reached from Skardu, while Altit is in Hunza on the Karakoram Highway side. Allow spare days for weather and slow mountain roads.

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