Thirsk, Northallerton and Easingwold: A Ghost Story Circuit

Three North Yorkshire market towns, one loop of old gaols, churchyards and cobbled lanes — and how to base yourself for it.

Why this corner of North Yorkshire suits a ghost-themed loop

Thirsk, Northallerton and Easingwold sit within about 20 miles of each other along the A19 and A170, which makes them unusually easy to string into a single day or a slow weekend. All three grew rich on droving, linen and corn, and the evidence is still there in narrow burgage plots, coaching inns and churchyards that predate the Reformation. The appeal is atmosphere, not jump-scares: you are walking lanes where the last lamplighter finished his round an hour before you started.

Thirsk is the natural first stop. The cobbled market square is one of the largest in England, and the fifteenth-century clock tower at its centre once had a gaol cell beneath it. From the square, Millgate and Kirkgate run down to St Mary's Church, rebuilt in the 1400s with a tower that leans noticeably. James Herriot's former surgery on Kirkgate draws coach parties; visit before 10am or after 4pm if you want the lanes quiet.

Thirsk to Northallerton: gaols, ginnels and a wide high street

The drive north on the A19 takes roughly 20 minutes. Northallerton's high street is a full mile long and wide enough for a cattle market, which is what it once hosted. Look for the wynds and ginnels — narrow cut-throughs between shopfronts — that link the high street to the becks behind. The parish church of All Saints has a tower you can see from the Cleveland Hills on a clear day, and the surrounding lanes hold Georgian townhouses built for solicitors and railway men.

Park at the Applegarth car park, which is central and cheap by southern standards, then walk. The Saturday market fills the high street and is the busiest day; Tuesday is quieter and better for photography. Between the two towns, the village of Osmotherley sits under the escarpment and makes a good lunch stop, with the Cleveland Way passing through. Book a Northallerton hotel if you want the best rail links — the station on the East Coast Main Line puts York 35 minutes away and Edinburgh under three hours.

Across the Vale to Easingwold

Easingwold is west of the A19, reached from Thirsk in about 25 minutes via the A170 and A19, or from Northallerton in 20. It is the smallest and most intact of the three: a Georgian market cross, a cobbled square and a church, St John the Baptist, with a Norman doorway and a warren of headstones. The town sits on a ridge above the Vale of York, and the light in late afternoon is the reason photographers keep coming back.

This is walking country rather than driving country. The Easingwold district has a dense network of footpaths, and the route towards Crayke climbs to a village with a castle mound and views across the plain. May and September are the best months — the hedgerows are full and the light is long, without the school-holiday crowds of July and August. Skip Easingwold on a Monday if you want shops open; several close. In truth, the ghost-story appeal here is quieter and more convincing than any organised attraction.

What to skip, and where I would book

Skip the paid ghost walks in York if you are staying in this triangle. York is 25 minutes from Easingwold by car, and its evening ghost tours are crowded, scripted and expensive. The free version — a walk around the Minster after dark — is better. Also skip driving between the three towns at night for atmosphere alone; the lanes are unlit, hedge-bound and often wet, and there is nothing to see that you cannot see on foot in the town centres.

For a two-night stay I would book Thirsk. It is central to the loop, the square has the strongest sense of history, and the town is small enough to walk in an evening. Choose a room off the square rather than on it if you want quiet. Northallerton wins if you are arriving by train or continuing to Durham or Edinburgh. Easingwold suits a third night, or a walking weekend based on the footpaths rather than the folklore.

Questions, answered

How long does the circuit take?

Driving between the three towns takes about 45 minutes in total. Allow a full day to walk each centre properly, or two nights if you want time on the footpaths around Easingwold. Distances are short, so the loop works well without an early start.

Do I need a car?

A car is the practical choice. Buses link Thirsk and Northallerton on the A19 corridor, but Easingwold is poorly served from either. Northallerton has the best rail connections, on the East Coast Main Line, which makes it the strongest base if you are arriving by train.

When is the best time to visit?

May and September give long light and manageable crowds. July and August bring the Herriot traffic to Thirsk and fill the market squares. Saturday is market day in Northallerton and the busiest day in Thirsk; Tuesday and Wednesday are quieter and better for walking the lanes.

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