Ribblehead to Whernside: A 2-Day Hiker's Itinerary with Specific Hotel Stops

Plan the classic Three Peaks route from Ribblehead to Whernside with practical overnight stops in Ingleton, Hawes and Settle.

Day 1: Ribblehead to Whernside Summit and Down to Ingleton

Start at Ribblehead Viaduct, where the Settle-Carlisle railway crosses Batty Moss. The walk to Whernside's 736m summit via the main path takes 2.5-3.5 hours, depending on pace and weather. From the summit, descend north-east towards Dentdale or south to Ingleton. The full circuit to Ingleton is about 14km and 5-6 hours. Best months are May to September for drier paths, but expect boggy sections after rain. The Ribblehead Inn serves food, but for a proper overnight, book in Ingleton: the Wheatsheaf or The Marton Arms offer double rooms from £80-£120. Book at least two weeks ahead in summer.

If you'd rather split the day, stop at The Old Hill Inn, 1.5km from Ribblehead, a 16th-century drovers' inn with rooms from £90. It's a 10-minute drive from the viaduct, but a 25-minute walk if you're on foot. For budget options, the Ingleton YHA has dorm beds from £20. I'd book The Marton Arms for its beer garden and proximity to the Ingleton Waterfalls Trail, which is a nice leg-stretcher if you arrive early. Skip the crowds at White Scar Cave unless you have a spare hour and £15.

Transport: Ribblehead has a railway station on the Settle-Carlisle line, with trains from Leeds (1h 30m) and Carlisle (1h). Parking at Ribblehead is limited; arrive before 9am. From Ingleton, buses run to Settle and Kirkby Lonsdale, but services are sparse on Sundays. A taxi from Ribblehead to Ingleton costs around £25-£30. For a car-free trip, base in Settle and take the train to Ribblehead.

Day 2: Ingleton to Hawes via Whernside's Eastern Flank

From Ingleton, head north-east on the Dales High Way towards Hawes, passing through Chapel-le-Dale and the eastern flank of Whernside. This is a 20km walk taking 6-7 hours, with 600m of ascent. The route via Blea Moor and the Dent Head viaduct is quieter than the main Three Peaks path. Alternatively, drive to Hawes (40 minutes from Ingleton) and walk a shorter 10km loop from Hawes to Whernside and back. In Hawes, the Crown Hotel and the White Hart Inn both have doubles from £70-£110. The Hawes YHA is closed, so book early.

Hawes is the highest market town in England and home to the Wensleydale Creamery. After a long walk, the fish and chips at The Chippie are a solid reward. For a splurge, the Simonstone Hall Hotel, 3km north, offers rooms from £130 and a restaurant with a view. I'd book the Crown Hotel for its central location and cosy bar. If you're continuing to Settle, the drive from Hawes takes 50 minutes via the B6255, a scenic but narrow road. Skip the Wensleydale Creamery tour if you're short on time; the shop is free and you can taste cheese without the £5 tour.

The best months for this section are June to August, when the hay meadows are in bloom. Winter walking requires full winter gear and shorter daylight hours. Hawes has a Tuesday market and several pubs, but many close early on weekdays. Book accommodation in advance, especially on weekends. The nearest railway station is Garsdale, 10km away, with trains to Leeds and Carlisle. A taxi from Hawes to Garsdale costs £15-£20.

Where to Stay and What to Skip

For a two-day hike, I'd split the nights: first in Ingleton, second in Hawes. Ingleton has more accommodation and better transport links; Hawes is quieter but more central for Whernside's eastern approaches. If you prefer a single base, Settle is a good compromise: it has a railway station, plenty of pubs (The Talbot, The Golden Lion) and rooms from £75-£130. From Settle, Ribblehead is a 15-minute train ride. The Falcon Manor in Settle is a reliable mid-range choice. Avoid booking in Skipton or Kendal unless you have a car; the extra driving eats into walking time.

Book directly with the hotel or via a local booking site to avoid chain surcharges. Many places offer packed lunches for £5-£8 if you ask the night before. The Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority lists many independent hotels and B&Bs. For a touch of luxury, the Lister Arms in Malham (30 minutes from Settle) has rooms from £120. But for this itinerary, I'd stick to Ingleton and Hawes. Skip the temptation to climb Ingleborough on the same trip; it deserves its own day. And don't rely on mobile signal: EE has the best coverage, but expect gaps in Dentdale.

Questions, answered

How do I get to Ribblehead without a car?

Ribblehead has its own railway station on the Settle-Carlisle line, with regular trains from Leeds (1h 30m) and Carlisle (1h). From the station, the viaduct is a 5-minute walk. For Ingleton, take a taxi from Ribblehead (about £25) or walk the 14km.

What's the best time of year to hike Whernside?

May to September offers the driest paths and longest daylight. June and July are ideal for wildflowers, but expect crowds on weekends. Winter hikes require full winter gear, and daylight is limited to 7-8 hours. Always check the weather forecast.

Can I book accommodation on the day?

In summer, popular places like Ingleton and Hawes fill up weeks in advance. Book at least two weeks ahead for weekends. Outside peak season, you might find last-minute rooms, but it's risky. The YHA in Ingleton often has dorm beds available short notice.

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