North Yorkshire Coastal Adventure Bases: Whitby, Filey and Scarborough

Compare the three main coastal towns for surfing, coasteering, kayaking and cliff walks — and where to sleep between sessions.

Whitby: Best for variety and a working harbour

Whitby packs a lot into a small compass: a sheltered harbour, sandy beach at Tate Hill and West Cliff, and the 199-step climb to the Abbey ruins. Surf schools operate from Saltwick Bay and Sandsend, both a short drive north. Coasteering outfits run sessions off the scar rocks near Runswick Bay, 8 miles up the coast. Kayak hire is on the Esk, and the Cinder Track — a 21-mile former railway path to Scarborough — starts near the station. Summer water temperatures hover around 14–16°C, so a 4/3 wetsuit is standard; winter surfers use 5/4 boots and gloves.

Where to stay depends on your kit. For surfboards and bikes, book around West Cliff (YO21) — guesthouses and small hotels with yards, 5 minutes' walk from the beach and 10 from the station. The old town east of the bridge is prettier but tight for parking; only choose it if you're on foot. Prices run £70–110 for a double in a good B&B in May and September, £120–180 in July and August. Avoid the first weekend of Whitby Goth Weekend and the Regatta in August unless you book months ahead — those dates sell out and rates double.

Scarborough: Two bays, more options, easier logistics

Scarborough splits into South Bay (classic seaside, sandy, busy) and North Bay (quieter, better for watersports). The North Bay promenade has kayak and paddleboard hire, and the reef off Scalby Ness gives coasteering guides something to work with. Surf is small and forgiving — good for beginners — with the best swell at Cayton Bay, 3 miles south. The Cleveland Way long-distance path joins both bays over Oliver's Mount, and the 109-mile round-trip cycle route to Whitby via the Cinder Track is flat and signposted.

Base yourself in North Bay (YO12 7) if you're renting a board or bike — hotels along Burniston Road have storage and free parking. South Bay (YO11) suits families and rail arrivals: Scarborough station is a 5-minute walk from the front, with direct trains from York in 50 minutes and Leeds in 1 hour 20. Expect £65–95 for a decent double in spring and autumn, £110–160 in peak summer. Book North Bay for action, South Bay for convenience. Skip the arcade strip on the South Bay front if you want quiet evenings.

Filey: Smallest base, biggest beach, best for families and kitesurfing

Filey's five-mile beach is the widest and least developed of the three. The north end near Carr Naze and Filey Brigg is a rocky spit popular with sea anglers and snorkellers; the south end toward Hunmanby Gap is firm sand that suits kitesurfing and landboarding when the wind is onshore. There are no surf schools in Filey itself, but Scarborough's operators cover it. The Filey to Bempton cliff walk (7 miles) passes seabird colonies at Bempton Cliffs — puffins April to July — and the Cleveland Way starts at Filey Brigg.

Accommodation is mostly small guesthouses and self-catering cottages, with a handful of hotels around The Crescent and Station Road (YO14). Parking is easy and free in most streets. Doubles run £60–90 in shoulder season, £95–140 in August. Filey is the quietest of the three: if you want bars and a choice of restaurants at 10pm, it won't suit you. If you want to launch a kite or walk a dog straight from the door, it's the best value on this coast. Book early for the August school holidays and the Filey Folk Festival in May.

Questions, answered

Which town is best for beginner surfers?

Scarborough's North Bay and Cayton Bay have the most forgiving waves and several schools. Whitby's Sandsend is better for intermediates. Filey has no surf schools — you'd travel to Scarborough, 15 minutes by car, or book a lesson from Whitby.

Do I need a car?

It helps. Trains connect Scarborough, Filey and Whitby via York, but surf spots like Sandsend, Cayton Bay and Hunmanby Gap are 2–5 miles from the stations. Buses run in summer; outside July and August they're sparse. Parking is free in most Filey streets.

When should I book for the best value?

Late May, June and September: water is warmest (14–16°C in September), rates are 30–40% below August, and beaches are quieter. Avoid school holidays and Whitby's Goth Weekend. For B&Bs, book 6–8 weeks ahead; for August, 3–4 months.

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