Hawes with Kids: A Practical Guide to Upper Wensleydale

Plan a family break in the Yorkshire Dales with real advice on where to stay, what to see, and how to keep everyone happy.

Getting There and Getting Oriented

Hawes sits at the head of Wensleydale, about 70 miles from York and 60 from Leeds, with the A684 running through town. By car, the journey from the M6 at Tebay takes around 40 minutes over moorland roads; from the A1 at Leeming, allow an hour. The nearest railway stations are Garsdale (8 miles) and Northallerton (28 miles). Buses link Hawes to Northallerton and Kendal, though services are infrequent. For families, a car is almost essential. Once in Hawes, most attractions are within walking distance, and the town is small and safe for children to explore.

The main street is narrow and lined with independent shops, cafes, and the Dales Countryside Museum. The market place has a Tuesday market and public toilets. Hawes is a good base for Upper Wensleydale, with easy access to Hardraw Force, the Buttertubs Pass, and the Settle-Carlisle railway. For a family with young children, staying in or near the town centre means you can walk to meals and avoid driving after a long day. Parking is limited, so check whether your hotel offers a space.

Where to Stay: Hotels and Alternatives

Hawes has a handful of small hotels and a good number of B&Bs and self-catering cottages. Hotels in the centre typically charge £90–£150 per room per night, with family rooms often around £120–£160. Budget B&Bs start at £70–£90 for a double, while self-catering cottages for a week range from £350 to £700 depending on season. For a family of four, a self-catering cottage often works out cheaper than two hotel rooms, but hotels offer breakfast and daily housekeeping. The main hotel in Hawes is the Crown, which has family rooms and a central location; other options include the White Hart and the Board Inn.

If you want a pool or more facilities, consider staying in Leyburn or Richmond instead. Leyburn is 16 miles east and has a wider choice of hotels, plus a swimming pool at the leisure centre. Richmond, 22 miles east, offers more restaurants and a castle. However, staying in Hawes means you are already in the heart of the national park, saving daily drives. For a first visit with children, I would book a hotel in Hawes for two or three nights, then move to Leyburn or Richmond for a couple more, giving you both moorland and amenities.

What to Do with Children

The Dales Countryside Museum in Hawes is free for children and has hands-on exhibits about lead mining and farming. Wensleydale Creamery offers a visitor centre where you can watch cheese-making and sample varieties; it is stroller-friendly and has a cafe. For outdoor fun, Hardraw Force is a short walk from Hawes (about 1 mile) and claims to be England's highest single-drop waterfall. The walk is manageable for children over five, but not suitable for pushchairs due to steps and uneven paths. Further afield, the Forbidden Corner near Leyburn is a quirky garden of tunnels and surprises, best for ages 5–12; book ahead as tickets sell out.

A ride on the Settle-Carlisle railway from Garsdale or Dent is a treat for train-loving kids. The journey to Settle takes about 50 minutes and passes over the Ribblehead Viaduct. In Hawes, the Wensleydale Railway (actually based in Leeming Bar) is a heritage line, but it's a 30-minute drive. For rainy days, the museum and creamery are your best bets. In summer, the town has a outdoor pool at the Hawes Community Pool (check opening times). Best months for a visit are May to September, when the weather is mildest and most attractions are open; July and August are busiest, so book accommodation early.

Practical Tips for Families

Hawes has a small Co-op for essentials and a few cash machines. Mobile signal is patchy in the dales, so download offline maps. The nearest hospital with an A&E is in Northallerton (28 miles) or Lancaster (35 miles). For minor issues, there is a GP surgery in Hawes. When walking, wear sturdy shoes and carry waterproofs; weather changes quickly. The popular Aysgarth Falls (12 miles east) has easy trails and a visitor centre, but the falls themselves have slippery rocks. Keep an eye on children near water. For meals, pubs in Hawes welcome families until around 8pm, and the creamery cafe is a good lunch stop.

If you are planning to visit in peak season, book your hotel at least two months ahead. For a family of four, expect to pay £120–£180 per night for a hotel with breakfast. Self-catering cottages often require a Saturday-to-Saturday booking in summer. I would skip the drive over Buttertubs Pass with very young children if they get carsick, as the road is steep and winding. Instead, take the gentler route via Askrigg. Finally, check opening days: some attractions close on Mondays or Tuesdays, so plan accordingly.

Questions, answered

Is Hawes a good base for a family holiday in the Yorkshire Dales?

Yes, Hawes is small, safe, and central for Upper Wensleydale. You can walk to museums, cafes, and walks. It lacks a swimming pool and large supermarkets, but has enough for a short break. A car helps for exploring further afield.

What are the best family-friendly attractions near Hawes?

The Dales Countryside Museum and Wensleydale Creamery are free or low-cost and indoors. Hardraw Force is a short walk. Further out, Forbidden Corner and Aysgarth Falls are popular. The Settle-Carlisle railway is a hit with children.

How much does a family hotel room in Hawes cost per night?

Expect to pay between £120 and £180 per night for a family room with breakfast, depending on season. Budget B&Bs may be cheaper, but family rooms are limited. Self-catering cottages can offer better value for longer stays.

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