Autumn Walks in the North York Moors: Routes and Places to Stay
Plan an autumn walking break in the North York Moors with our pick of routes, bases and honest advice on where to stay.
Rosedale and the old ironstone railway
The circular walk around Rosedale Abbey, taking in the remains of the 19th-century ironstone railway, is a gentle introduction to the moors. The route is about 5 miles with 200 metres of ascent, following the old trackbed before climbing to the kilns and returning through the village. In autumn, the bracken turns bronze and the rowan berries are out. The going is mostly good underfoot, though the climb from the valley floor is steady. Allow two to three hours, and finish with a pot of tea in one of the village cafés.
For a longer day, extend the walk north to Ana Cross, a medieval wayside cross on the ridge, adding 3 miles and 150 metres of ascent. The views over Rosedale and towards the Esk Valley are superb. The best months for colour are late September to early November; after heavy rain, the path through the old railway cuttings can be muddy, so waterproof boots are essential. The car park at Rosedale Abbey is free, but fills by 10am on fine weekends. Alternatively, the 840 Coastliner bus from Pickering or Whitby stops in the village, making a car-free day easy.
The Cleveland Way from Osmotherley
Osmotherley, on the western edge of the moors, is a classic starting point for the Cleveland Way. A 7-mile circuit takes in the escarpment at Scarth Wood Moor, the village of Swainby and the ruins of Whorlton Castle. The ascent from Osmotherley is gradual, and the return via the castle adds variety. In autumn, the beech woods below the escarpment are a highlight. The path is well marked, but the section between Osmotherley and Scarth Nick can be slippery after rain. Allow three to four hours.
For a shorter option, a 3-mile walk to the Mount Grace Priory viewpoint and back is rewarding; the priory itself, a Carthusian monastery run by English Heritage, is worth a visit. Autumn opening hours are usually 10am to 4pm, but check before setting out. Osmotherley has two pubs and a village shop, making it a good base. The nearest railway station is Northallerton, 8 miles away, with bus connections. Parking in the village is limited, so arrive early or use the car park at Sheepwash, a 10-minute walk from the centre.
Where to stay: Pickering, Helmsley and York
Pickering is a practical base for the southern moors, with the North Yorkshire Moors Railway steam trains offering a scenic way to reach Grosmont or Goathland. Hotels and B&Bs here are generally good value, with double rooms from around £80 per night. The town has a good range of cafés and pubs. For a quieter stay, Helmsley, 14 miles west, is a handsome market town with a castle and a walled garden, and easy access to the Cleveland Way. Expect to pay a little more, from £100 per night. Both towns have free parking at some accommodation, but check before booking.
York, 25 miles south of Pickering, is a convenient base if you want city amenities and plan to explore the moors by car. The drive to the southern moors takes about 40 minutes. York hotels range widely, from budget chains to boutique townhouses; for autumn weekends, book well ahead. If you are relying on public transport, Pickering is the better choice, with the Coastliner bus linking to Malton, Leeds and Whitby. I would book a guesthouse in Pickering for a walking-focused trip, and Helmsley for a special occasion. Avoid the moors on peak autumn weekends if you dislike crowds.
Practicalities for autumn walking
Autumn weather on the moors can change quickly; a waterproof jacket and sturdy boots are essential. Paths can be muddy, especially in wooded valleys and on the old railway lines. Daylight fades by 5pm in late October, so start early and carry a torch. The moors are exposed; even on mild days, the wind on the tops can be biting. Pack a map and compass, as phone signal is patchy in the valleys. The North York Moors National Park website has downloadable route maps. Dogs are welcome on most routes but should be kept on leads around livestock, which is common on the moors.
For a rewarding autumn walk, consider the Hole of Horcum, a natural amphitheatre on the Pickering to Whitby road. The 4-mile circuit from the car park is family-friendly and offers dramatic views. The best time for heather colour is August, but autumn brings golden bracken. The car park is free, but the ice cream van may not be there in October. If you want a challenge, the Lyke Wake Walk, a 40-mile crossing of the moors, is best attempted in summer. For most visitors, a series of shorter walks from a comfortable base is the way to go.
Questions, answered
Do I need a car to explore the North York Moors?
A car is helpful, but not essential. The Coastliner bus links Pickering, Malton and Whitby, and the North Yorkshire Moors Railway provides scenic connections. Some villages, like Osmotherley, have limited public transport, so check timetables.
What should I pack for autumn walking in the moors?
Waterproof jacket and trousers, sturdy boots, warm layers, a map and compass, and a torch. The weather can change quickly, and paths can be muddy. Carry water and snacks, as facilities are sparse.
Are there any autumn walking events in the North York Moors?
The North York Moors National Park often runs guided walks in autumn, but dates vary. Check their website for details. The Coastliner bus also offers a 'Moors Explorer' ticket, useful for linear walks.
5% back on completed stays · ~1 tonne CO₂ retired per booking