Two Days in Heemskerk: A Short Noord-Holland Break

Heemskerk makes a quiet, well-placed base between the dunes, the North Sea and the railway line to Amsterdam and Haarlem.

Day one: castle, dunes and the sea at Heemskerk

Start at Kasteel Heemskerk on the eastern edge of town. The thirteenth-century castle sits in a small wooded park, and what you see is largely a nineteenth-century rebuilding on medieval foundations. Opening hours are seasonal and limited, usually spring through autumn and often only a few afternoons a week, so check before travelling; the loop path through the trees is open daily and free. From the castle it is roughly a fifteen-minute walk west to the compact centre around the Plein and the old village church, where the bakery and cafe stops are concentrated.

In the afternoon head for the dunes, which press right against the town's western edge. The Heemskerkerduin and the Noordhollands Duinreservaat are crossed by marked paths and cycle tracks; a day ticket for the waterleidingduinen area is inexpensive. The nearest wide beach is at Castricum aan Zee, about seven kilometres west, reachable by bike in half an hour or by bus and a walk. In summer go early, as the car parks there fill by mid-morning; the walk back along the strand to the beach pavilion at Heemskerk aan Zee is the better end to the day.

Day two: Haarlem and the coast by rail

Heemskerk's station lies a short walk from the centre and offers a fast, simple connection; Haarlem is fifteen minutes away, and trains also run south towards Beverwijk and beyond. Spend the morning in Haarlem around the Grote Markt, the Teylers Museum and the Frans Hals Museum, which between them fill four or five hours comfortably. Haarlem reward is compact streets between the station and the market square, with lunch options at every price from a sandwich counter to a proper restaurant on the Kleine Houtstraat.

If the weather holds, take the train onward to Zandvoort aan Zee, another ten minutes or so, for a wide North Sea beach and a reformist promenade. Come back to Heemskerk for the evening; the town's restaurants are few but solid, and prices sit below Haarlem's. As a base, Heemskerk suits travellers with a car or a bike who want the coast and the cities without city prices, while those relying on late-night trains will do better staying in Haarlem itself. Book a room close to the station for the easiest two-day rhythm.

A side trip to Alkmaar and the polder

Alkmaar is about half an hour north by train and makes a straightforward half-day. The old centre, the Waag and the canals are the draw, and the famous cheese market runs on Friday mornings from spring to early autumn. Do not build a whole day around it unless you enjoy crowds; instead pair the market with the Stedelijk Museum and a walk along the small canals behind the Langestraat. Trains back to Heemskerk are frequent until the evening.

Inland, the polder roads between Heemskerk, Uitgeest and Assendelft are flat, quiet and excellent on a bike. The route past the Zuid-Kennemerland edge and the small harbours is manageable in three or four hours. Rentals are available in Castricum and Beverwijk but not reliably in Heemskerk itself, so arrange a bike the day before. Best months are May, June and September: warm enough for the beach, with fewer visitors than July and August and lower room rates than Haarlem's peak weeks.

Practical notes for booking

Hotel stock in Heemskerk is small, mostly modest three-star properties near the centre and the station, with a handful of guesthouses in the surrounding village lanes. Rates generally sit below comparable Haarlem rooms, and twin or double rooms in the high season are worth reserving a few weeks ahead because capacity is thin. Check the cancellation terms carefully, and confirm parking, since some smaller properties have limited on-site spaces and rely on street parking nearby.

For two days, I would book a room within ten minutes' walk of Heemskerk station and plan one day on foot and bike, one day by train. Skip the beach on windy days in favour of Haarlem's museums, and skip the cheese market if you are short on time. The town is not a destination in itself, but as a base for the dunes, the coast and two cities it is honest value, especially for travellers arriving by car.

Questions, answered

Do I need a car to enjoy Heemskerk?

No, but it helps. The station connects to Haarlem in about fifteen minutes and Alkmaar in around thirty. The dunes and beach at Castricum aan Zee are easier by bike, roughly seven kilometres west, or by bus and a short walk.

When is the best time to visit?

May, June and September offer the best balance: mild weather, accessible beaches and quieter rooms. July and August bring the warmest sea but also the highest demand, so book several weeks ahead if you want a twin or double room near the centre.

Where should I stay for a two-day break?

Book near Heemskerk station for easy rail links to Haarlem and Alkmaar, or in the older lanes near the Plein for the bakery and cafe stops. Availability is limited, so compare a few small hotels and guesthouses and confirm parking before reserving.

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