Driving Nevada's Cowboy Trail: Towns and Stops to Know

A practical route guide to the historic ranching towns, hot springs and high-desert miles along US-50 and the Great Basin Highway, with drive times and where to base yourself.

The Route in Brief: US-50 and the Great Basin Highway

The so-called Cowboy Trail is really two linked drives. US-50, the loneliest road in America, crosses the state east to west from Baker at the Utah line through Ely, Austin, Fallon and on to Carson City — roughly 650 kilometres of basin-and-range country. The Great Basin Highway (US-93) runs north-south from Las Vegas through Caliente, Pioche and Ely, linking to US-50. Most travellers fly into Las Vegas and loop north, or into Reno and drive east. Allow four to five days minimum; anything less and you are just moving a car.

Distances are deceptive. Las Vegas to Ely on US-93 is about 400 kilometres, three and a half hours without stops — but Caliente, Pioche and the Cathedral Gorge detour will eat a full day. Ely to Austin on US-50 is 280 kilometres, three hours, with almost nothing between. Fuel at every town; on stretches like Ely to Austin or Austin to Fallon there is no pump for 100 kilometres or more. Carry water, and check that your hire car has a full-size spare, because shoulders are gravel and tyre damage is the most common breakdown.

Where to Stay and What Each Base Gives You

For the southern leg, Las Vegas and North Las Vegas have the deepest hotel stock and the best rates outside convention weeks — use them as a gateway night before heading north on I-15. Henderson, on the lake side, is quieter and saves you the Strip traffic. Reno works better as a northern anchor for US-50's western end, with easy access to Carson City and Virginia City. Book gateway cities first, because demand in Las Vegas and Reno is what fills up in spring and autumn, then work out the small-town nights around them.

In the historic towns, expect small independent motels and a handful of renovated properties rather than chains. Ely has the widest choice, clustered along Aultman Street and Great Basin Boulevard, plus the Nevada Hotel downtown. Austin's options are few and book out for the summer, so reserve early. Fallon, 100 kilometres east of Carson City, is a sensible stop between Austin and Reno and has more rooms than any town between Ely and the capital. Tonopah, if you extend onto US-95, offers a classic high-desert overnight. Would I book Tonopah? Yes, for the mining-park museum and the Mizpah's history, but not in July.

Towns Worth the Detour

Ely is the trail's capital: the Nevada Northern Railway runs steam excursions on selected weekends from spring to autumn, and the East Ely depot is a working heritage site rather than a museum piece. Pioche, an hour south, is a silver-boom town built into a hillside with a cemetery that locals will point you to and a main street of stone storefronts. Cathedral Gorge State Park, 25 minutes from Pioche, is a slot-canyon landscape of bentonite clay that you can walk in an hour. Caliente has the mission-style depot and a natural hot spring pool at the edge of town.

Austin, halfway across US-50, is a one-street climb of churches and saloons with a grids-to-graves cemetery above it. Fallon is farming country — alfalfa and Naval Air Station Fallon — and the Churchill County Museum is a genuinely good hour. Virginia City, north of Carson City, is the most visited of the old silver towns and the most commercial; go for the Fourth Ward School and the cemetery, skip the t-shirt shops. Genoa, at the foot of the Sierra, is a small, handsome stop with a state park and a couple of good cafés.

Timing, Weather and What to Skip

May, June and September are the sweet spots: daytime temperatures in the high twenties Celsius, cool nights, and snow mostly gone from the passes. July and August push past 38°C in the basins and afternoon thunderstorms build over the ranges. October is beautiful but the first snow can close higher roads; US-50 itself stays open, but check conditions before any Sierra crossing. Spring brings wildflowers to the Mojave stretches south of Caliente. Winter travel is possible but small-town motels and some attractions cut hours or close entirely.

Skip the temptation to treat US-50 as a fast transit. The stretch between Fallon and Austin has the Sand Mountain Recreation Area, a 200-foot dune where you will hear off-road vehicles long before you see them, and the crumbling Pony Express stations at Cold Springs and Middlegate — the latter's bar is a genuine roadside institution. What I would not do is try to combine the full loop with a Las Vegas weekend in under a week. Base in Las Vegas or Reno for arrival and departure, book the small towns in between, and let the drive be the point.

Questions, answered

How long does it take to drive the Cowboy Trail in Nevada?

Plan four to five days for the Las Vegas–Ely–Austin–Fallon–Reno loop, covering roughly 1,300 kilometres. Two days gets you from Las Vegas to Ely and back with stops; a full circuit with detours to Pioche, Cathedral Gorge and Virginia City needs the longer window.

Do I need a four-wheel-drive vehicle?

Not for the paved route. US-50 and US-93 are two-lane highways in good condition. A standard car is fine, but check the spare tyre and carry water. Four-wheel drive only matters if you plan to take gravel side roads to hot springs or trailheads.

Where should I stay between Ely and Austin?

There is almost nothing in between, so don't try. Eureka, 125 kilometres west of Ely, has a small historic hotel and is the natural midpoint. Otherwise drive the full 280 kilometres in one morning and overnight in Austin, booking ahead because rooms are limited.

Is it safe to drive US-50 at night?

Avoid it. Open-range cattle, deer and poor lighting make night driving on US-50 risky, and services are sparse. Aim to reach your overnight town before dusk, especially on the Austin–Fallon and Ely–Eureka stretches where fuel is limited.

When is the best time to visit Nevada's cowboy towns?

Late May to mid-June and September are ideal, with mild days and cool nights. July and August bring temperatures above 38°C in the basins. October is pleasant but early snow can affect higher roads near the Sierra.

Which town is best for the historic railway?

Ely. The Nevada Northern Railway operates steam and diesel excursions from the East Ely depot on selected weekends from spring to autumn. Check the schedule before booking, as dates vary by season and special events sell out.

Should I base myself in Las Vegas or Reno?

Las Vegas is better for the southern loop via Caliente and Pioche; Reno suits the western end around Carson City, Virginia City and Fallon. If you are flying in and out of different airports, start in Las Vegas and finish in Reno.

What should I skip on the route?

The commercial heart of Virginia City if you are short on time — the cemetery and Fourth Ward School are the worthwhile parts. Also skip trying to combine the loop with a full Las Vegas weekend; the driving distances leave no room.

← Nevada's page