Lisbon on a Budget: Tram Routes, Funiculars and Sunset Miradouros
How to ride Tram 28, the three historic funiculars and catch the best free sunset in Lisbon without overspending.
Tram 28: the route, the timing and what it really costs
Tram 28 runs from Martim Moniz, beside the Intendente end of the Baixa, up through Graça and Alfama, then west through Baixa to Chiado, up to Bairro Alto and out to Campo de Ourique. A single ticket bought on board is the most expensive way to ride; a rechargeable Viva Viagem card loaded with stored credit at a metro machine costs a fraction per journey, and a 24-hour pass pays for itself after roughly three rides. Carry the card rather than cash for the driver.
Board at Martim Moniz before 9am or after 8pm. Mid-morning to late afternoon the queue at that stop can swallow an hour, and the tram often arrives already full. If you only want the scenery, ride the section between Graça and São Vicente, which is the stretch through the narrowest streets, then walk down to Alfama instead of riding back. Pickpocketing on this line is a known problem, so keep bags zipped and in front of you.
The three funiculars and how to use them sensibly
The Elevador da Glória links Restauradores to the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint above Bairro Alto. The Elevador da Bica climbs from Rua de São Paulo in Cais do Sodré to Calçada do Combro, and the Elevador do Lavra serves the Anjos side of Avenida da Liberdade. All three are operated by Carris, so the same Viva Viagem card and the same 24-hour pass cover them. Each ride is short, under three minutes, and the funicular cost is identical to a tram fare.
Use them for the climb, not the descent. Glória saves a steep ten-minute walk and drops you at the best sunset terrace in the centre. Bica is worth it once for the photograph of the yellow car on the impossibly steep street. Lavra is the quietest and the one most visitors skip, which makes it the easiest to board. In November and winter, check the Carris app the morning you plan to ride: the funiculars close for maintenance without much notice, and Bica is the most frequent offender.
Where to watch the sun go down for free
Lisbon faces west across the Tagus, so sunset is a city-wide event and the terraces fill accordingly. Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, at the top of the Glória, gives a long view over the castle hill and Baixa rooftops. Miradouro da Graça and Miradouro da Senhora do Monte sit higher in Graça; the second is the highest and quietest of the trio, with a view clear to the 25 de Abril bridge. All are free and open at any hour.
Arrive 45 minutes before sunset in summer, 30 in winter, and bring a layer: the wind off the river turns the terraces cold quickly after the light goes. Senhora do Monte has no bar, so carry water or a beer from a shop on the way up. For a river-level view instead, the Ribeira das Naus promenade between Praça do Comércio and Cais do Sodré is flat, free, and far less crowded than the hillside miradouros.
Putting a budget day together
A sensible shape is this: buy a 24-hour Carris pass, ride Tram 28 east from Martim Moniz early, walk down through Alfama to the river, and take the Glória up late afternoon for the sunset at São Pedro de Alcântara, then descend on foot into Bairro Alto for dinner. One pass, one paid ride, everything else on foot. Skip the Tram 15 to Belém on a sunset day — it eats the afternoon and the return trip at dusk is slow.
Stay in Chiado, Baixa or the lower edge of Bairro Alto if you want the trams and miradouros within a fifteen-minute walk; Alfama and Graça are prettier but involve a stiff climb at the end of every evening. The eastern stations of Santa Apolónia and the Intendente end of town are cheaper for hotels and still one tram ride from the centre. Book a room with a lift in these old buildings, or check clearly that it has one.
Questions, answered
Do I need to book Tram 28 tickets in advance?
No, but you do need a Viva Viagem card, bought and topped up at any metro station machine, which saves money against paying the driver. Board at Martim Moniz before 9am or after 8pm to avoid the longest queues.
Which Lisbon sunset miradouro should I choose?
Senhora do Monte in Graça if you want space and the widest view, São Pedro de Alcântara if you want a bar and a short ride up on the Glória funicular, or Ribeira das Naus by the river for a flat, uncrowded alternative.
Are the funiculars included in a Lisbon travel pass?
Yes, the Glória, Bica and Lavra funiculars are all run by Carris, so they are covered by the same Viva Viagem stored credit and by the 24-hour Carris pass. They occasionally close for maintenance, so check the Carris app first.
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