Walking the Wicklow Way: Where to Sleep Along Ireland's Oldest Long-Distance Trail

A stage-by-stage look at the villages, guesthouses and hotel stops that make the 130-kilometre Wicklow Way walkable in comfort, from Marlay Park to Clonegal.

Starting in Dublin and the first stages south

The Wicklow Way begins at Marlay Park in south Dublin, reachable on the Luas Green Line to Dundrum and then a short bus or taxi ride to the park gates. Most walkers treat the first day as a warm-up: about 15 kilometres over the Dublin Mountains to Enniskerry or Glencree, with views back over the city from the Hellfire Club. Enniskerry has the widest choice of beds, from guesthouses to the larger hotels around Powerscourt Estate, and it is the sensible base if you want a proper dinner and a bath before the ground gets rougher.

Stay in Enniskerry rather than pressing on to Roundwood on day one. The climb over Djouce and White Hill is the toughest stretch of the northern section, and starting it fresh makes a real difference. Buses from Dublin to Enniskerry run regularly, so you can leave a car or a suitcase in the city. Book two nights here if you want a rest day at Powerscourt Gardens or the waterfall — both are a short taxi ride from the village centre.

The middle sections: Roundwood, Laragh and Glendalough

From Enniskerry the way climbs past Lough Tay and into Roundwood, a village with a handful of pubs, a well-stocked shop and a few guesthouses. Roundwood is the last place for a proper resupply before Glendalough, so buy snacks here. The next stage over Paddock Hill to Laragh is around 20 kilometres of forestry track and open hillside, and Laragh is the natural overnight stop for Glendalough: two pubs, a couple of guesthouses and B&Bs, and the monastic site a 20-minute walk away.

Glendalough itself has the widest range of accommodation in the county, from hostels to country-house hotels, and it is where I would book if you only have one night in the mountains. Prices in the villages sit well below Dublin city rates, though weekends in summer fill early — June to September is peak, with May and late September offering better value and quieter trails. Avoid Bank Holiday weekends if you want solitude on the boardwalk above the upper lake.

The southern half and finishing at Clonegal

South of Glendalough the Way quietens considerably. The stretch through Glenmalure to Knockananna and Moyne is rough, boggy in places and lightly served by beds, so plan your stages around Tinahely, which has guesthouses and a shop, and Shillelagh, a small town with a hotel and bus links to Arklow and Dublin. Distances between villages here are longer than the map suggests; allow for 20 to 25 kilometres a day and carry water, as streams are not treated for drinking.

The final day runs from Shillelagh through parkland to Clonegal, a pretty village on the Carlow border with a castle and a couple of pubs. Public transport out of Clonegal is limited — a taxi to Bunclody or Carlow town is the usual solution, so book it the night before. If you have time, add a night in Tinahely to break the longest southern stage; the walk through the Ow Valley is one of the finest on the whole route and deserves better than a rushed afternoon.

Practicalities: bags, weather and when to go

Luggage transfer is widely offered by local walking-holiday operators along the Way, and most guesthouses will hold bags for a small fee if you arrange it directly. The trail is waymarked with the yellow walking man, but sections above 400 metres can be muddy and cloud-covered; waterproof boots and a map or offline app are essential. Mobile signal is patchy between Enniskerry and Roundwood and again south of Glenmalure.

May, June and September are the best months: long evenings, fewer midges than high summer, and enough daylight to finish a 25-kilometre stage comfortably. Many small guesthouses close from November to February. Book the Laragh and Glendalough nights first, as they are the bottleneck, then work outwards. For a first visit I would book four nights — Enniskerry, Laragh, Tinahely and Clonegal — and use buses or a taxi for the gaps rather than trying to walk every kilometre.

Questions, answered

How long does the Wicklow Way take to walk?

Most walkers take seven to nine days, covering 15 to 25 kilometres a day with rest stops. Four or five nights works well if you use buses or taxis to skip a few road sections and want a comfortable pace.

Where should I stay on the Wicklow Way?

Enniskerry, Laragh, Glendalough and Tinahely have the most reliable beds and food. Book Laragh or Glendalough first, since summer weekends fill early, then add Clonegal for the final night and a taxi onward.

Is the Wicklow Way well marked and suitable for beginners?

Yes, it is waymarked throughout and manageable for fit beginners, but the Djouce and Glenmalure sections are rough underfoot. Good boots, a map and a plan for shorter days in poor weather are sensible.

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