Winter Swimming in Iceland's Local Pools with Children: A Practical Guide

Geothermal pools stay open through the darkest weeks, and with a little planning they become the easiest family outing in Iceland.

What an Icelandic pool actually is

An Icelandic sundlaug is a municipal swimming pool, usually outdoors and heated by geothermal water, found in almost every town of any size. Reykjavík alone runs more than a dozen: Laugardalslaug near the Laugardalur valley, Sundhöllin just off Laugavegur, Vesturbæjarlaug on the western side, Árbæjarlaug in the eastern suburbs. Expect a 25-metre lap pool, one or two hotter sitting pools at around 38-40°C, a children's pool and usually a shallow paddling area. Steam rooms and hot pots sit alongside. They are public utilities run for residents, which is exactly why they feel so unforced and so good with children.

The water smells faintly of sulfur and that is normal, not a fault. Facilities are clean and staffed, changing rooms are gender-separated, and families use them year round. Entry is inexpensive by Nordic standards and children under a certain age often go free, but confirm current rates at the desk because they vary by municipality. Bring your own towel; rentals exist but are limited. Most pools stay open late on weekdays and shorter hours at weekends, and winter opening times are posted at the entrance and online. Check before you travel across town.

The shower rule and other things nobody warns you about

You must shower thoroughly without a swimsuit before entering the water. This is a firm rule, politely enforced, and it applies to children too. Most changing rooms have private cubicles, so families need not worry about the open-shower setup common in older buildings. Bring flip-flops or sandals for the floor, and a plastic bag for wet swimwear. Lockers usually need a coin or a card; keep a small amount of cash handy in case the lockers are the older coin type. Soap is provided at the showers.

Plan for the walk between building and water. Even 20 metres of cold air is bracing in January, when Reykjavík can sit near freezing and the wind is the real challenge. Bring a towel to the pool edge, or a robe for children, and keep the outdoor time short. Winter daylight is limited, roughly 11:00 to 16:00 in December, so an evening swim happens in the dark, which many families find atmospheric rather than grim. Geothermal pools are warm, but the air is not, so dry hair before leaving and keep hats to hand.

Choosing which pool suits your family

For a first visit with young children I would book a hotel near Laugardalslaug in Reykjavík 104. It has a large children's pool, waterslides and a shallow area, plus the geothermal sitting pools adults want, and it is a short drive or bus ride from the city centre. If you are staying downtown, Sundhöllin is the closest outdoor option and worth it for the location alone, though the children's area is smaller and the building older. Vesturbæjarlaug is quieter and popular with local families; Árbæjarlaug has a good indoor-outdoor mix for colder days.

Outside the capital the logic changes: pick the town you are sleeping in rather than driving far for a specific pool. Akureyri's pool on the north side of town is a fine stop on a northern itinerary, and smaller towns along the Ring Road almost always have one. Ask at your hotel reception for the nearest sundlaug and its winter hours; staff know which ones have family changing rooms and warm children's pools. In the Westfjords and the highlands, winter closures are common, so call ahead or check locally rather than assume.

Timing, weather and a realistic plan

Iceland's winter is milder than its name suggests but windier than visitors expect. Temperatures in Reykjavík hover around freezing, while the north and inland can drop well below. Pools close in severe weather, and roads between towns can be difficult, so build flexibility into your days. Late September to March is the quiet season with the lowest room rates; May and September are the sweet spot for combining swimming with sightseeing. Book accommodation early for the February and March northern-lights weeks, when demand in Reykjavík rises.

A realistic family pattern: swim in the late afternoon, when the pools are less busy, then eat dinner nearby. Keep the visit to about 90 minutes, because children tire in the heat and the cold air between pools. Skip the Blue Lagoon if you want a local pool experience with children: it is farther from Reykjavík, more expensive and less practical for a quick family swim, though it is a memorable stop in its own right. If your child is nervous about the cold walk, choose a pool with an indoor connection to the water, and check whether the children's pool is indoors.

Questions, answered

Do children need their own swimwear and towels?

Yes. Bring swimwear for everyone and a towel each, since rentals are limited and often cost extra. Many pools sell or lend armbands and floats, but supply is not guaranteed, so pack your own. Nappies for babies must be swimming nappies, and some pools stock them at the desk.

Is it safe for young children in winter?

Municipal pools are well supervised, with lifeguards on duty and clearly marked depths. The main risks are cold air between pools and slippery tiled floors. Keep children close, use the handrails, and limit outdoor time to short bursts. Warm up in the hot pots, which are usually shallow enough for older children.

Which pool would you book a hotel near?

Laugardalslaug in Reykjavík 104, for the combination of a large children's pool, slides and adult geothermal pools, with easy bus links to the centre. Hotels around Laugardalur and the nearby streets put you within walking distance and give quick access to the city's other family attractions.

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