Three Days in Hveragerdi: Iceland's Geothermal Town

Hveragerdi sits 45 kilometres east of Reykjavík, a town where greenhouses grow bananas and steam rises from the ground.

Day 1: Arrive and orient

Hveragerdi is a 40-minute drive from Reykjavík on Route 1, with buses from Mjódd bus terminal taking about an hour. After checking into your hotel, start at the Hveragerdi Geothermal Park, where you can see steaming vents and bubbling mud pools. The park is small and free to enter, with a wooden walkway. It's a gentle introduction to the area's geothermal activity. In the evening, eat at one of the town's few restaurants, such as Kjöt & Kúnst or Hverabakarí. Expect to pay around 2,500-3,500 ISK for a main course.

If you have time before dark, walk up to the Reykjadalur valley trailhead, about 3 kilometres from town. The trail is well marked and takes roughly 1 hour to reach the hot river. You can bathe in the warm water, but bring a towel and swimwear. Note that the trail can be muddy; sturdy shoes are essential. In winter, the path may be icy, so check conditions with the local information centre. The hot river is free, but there are no changing facilities, so come prepared. In summer, the midnight sun allows late hikes; in winter, daylight is limited to a few hours.

Day 2: Golden Circle or local hikes

Many visitors use Hveragerdi as a base for the Golden Circle. The drive to Þingvellir National Park takes about 50 minutes, to Geysir about 1 hour 10 minutes, and to Gullfoss waterfall about 1 hour 30 minutes. If you prefer to stay local, hike to Reykjadalur and spend a few hours soaking. Alternatively, visit the Hveragerdi Botanical Garden, which uses geothermal heat to grow exotic plants, including bananas. Entry is free, and it's a pleasant place for a stroll. For lunch, try the local bakery or a cafe; a sandwich and coffee will cost around 1,500 ISK.

In the afternoon, you could drive to the town of Selfoss, 15 minutes away, for more dining and shopping options. Or explore the surrounding countryside on horseback; several farms offer riding tours. If you're interested in geology, the Hveragerdi area is part of the Hengill volcanic system, and you can see evidence of past eruptions. Just be mindful of safety: stick to marked paths, especially near hot springs, as the water can be scalding. The weather can change quickly, so carry waterproof clothing. For dinner, consider a hotel restaurant; many offer local lamb or fish.

Day 3: South coast or relax

On your final day, consider a drive along the south coast. From Hveragerdi, it's about 1 hour 30 minutes to Seljalandsfoss waterfall, where you can walk behind the cascade. Further east, Skógafoss is another 30 minutes. The black sand beach at Reynisfjara is about 40 minutes beyond that. If you prefer a shorter trip, visit the town of Eyrarbakki, 25 minutes away, with its old houses and sea views. Back in Hveragerdi, unwind at the local swimming pool, which has hot tubs and steam rooms. Entry is around 1,000 ISK.

For a final evening, dine at a restaurant in town or return to Reykjavík if your flight is the next day. Hveragerdi makes a convenient stop before Keflavík Airport, which is about 1 hour 20 minutes away. If you have an early flight, consider staying near the airport. Otherwise, enjoy a last soak in the hot river or a stroll through the greenhouses. The town is small, so you can cover it in a few hours. Book your hotel in advance, especially in summer, as accommodation fills up quickly. The best months to visit are June to August for mild weather, or September to March for northern lights.

Questions, answered

How do I get to Hveragerdi from Reykjavík?

You can drive on Route 1, taking about 40 minutes. Buses from Mjódd terminal run regularly and take around an hour. The journey is scenic, passing through lava fields.

What are the must-see attractions in Hveragerdi?

The Geothermal Park, the hot river hike in Reykjadalur, and the Botanical Garden are highlights. The town is also a good base for the Golden Circle and south coast.

Is Hveragerdi a good base for exploring Iceland?

Yes, it's centrally located for the Golden Circle and south coast. It's less crowded than Reykjavík and offers easy access to geothermal areas. Many tours depart from here.

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