Reykjavik in December: Lights, Markets and Long Nights

December in Reykjavik means four to five hours of daylight, a city dressed in lights, and a short drive to some of the darkest skies in Europe.

What December actually feels like

Reykjavik in December runs on roughly four to five hours of usable daylight, with the sun skimming the horizon between about 11am and 4pm. It is not continuous darkness, but the light is low, blue and long, and locals treat it as a season rather than an obstacle. Temperatures hover around freezing, often a few degrees either side, and the city can swing between dry cold, sleet and wind within an afternoon. Pack a waterproof outer layer over insulation, and shoes with grip; pavements in the older districts freeze hard after sunset.

The upside of the short days is that evenings start early and the city leans into them. From late November, virtually every street in the 101 downtown postcode is strung with lights, and the main shopping streets, Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur, stay lit and busy well into the evening. If your priority is seeing the landscape rather than the city, plan day trips around the light window and keep the mornings for museums and pools, which do not depend on the sun.

Christmas markets and the Yule Cat

Reykjavik's Christmas market scene is modest but genuinely local. The main gathering is around Ingólfur Square in the centre, where wooden stalls sell smoked lamb, woollen goods and hot drinks through Advent, usually closing a few days before 24 December. A second cluster appears at the harbour near the Old Harbour district, and the Kolaportið flea market by the harbour runs weekend indoor sales with second-hand books, vintage wool and food stalls. Icelanders exchange books on 24 December, so bookshops along Laugavegur are unusually busy in the final week.

The folklore is worth knowing because it shapes the decorations you will see everywhere. The thirteen Jólasveinar, or Yule Lads, descend one a night in the run-up to Christmas, and the Yule Cat appears in window displays and shop murals. The city's public Christmas tree is traditionally a gift from Norway, lit in early December. If you want the market atmosphere without the pre-Christmas crush, the first two weekends of December are calmer than the week of the 24th, when many independent shops close for three days.

Northern lights, pools and long evenings

December is statistically one of the stronger months for aurora activity simply because the nights are long, but cloud cover decides everything. Tours leave from the city centre and the bus terminal at BSÍ on Vatnsmýrarvegur, heading for dark-sky spots such as Þingvellir, the Reykjanes Peninsula and the Kleifarvatn lake area, typically 45 to 90 minutes' drive. Expect a coach tour to cost noticeably more than a self-drive option once you add a rental car, fuel and parking, and expect cancellations in poor weather. Book a tour with a re-try policy rather than gambling on one night.

For evenings indoors, the city's geothermal pools are the local answer to the cold. Laugardalslaug, in the east of the city, is the largest and has outdoor lanes, hot pots and a steam room; Sundhöllin, near Hallgrímskirkja, is smaller and central. Vesturbæjarlaug, west of the centre, is the neighbourhood favourite. Entry is inexpensive by Icelandic standards but not free, and opening hours shorten around 24 December and New Year. Pair a pool visit with an early dinner rather than the reverse; kitchens in the centre tend to fill from 7pm.

Where to stay and what to skip

Base yourself in 101 Reykjavik if you want to walk to restaurants, bars and the main shopping streets. The area around Hallgrímskirkja, Skólavörðustígur and the streets off Laugavegur puts you within ten minutes of most of the December programme. Miðborg, the old core around Austurvöllur square and the parliament, is quieter at night but equally central. If you are booking a northern lights tour and an early departure to the airport, the Hlemmur area and the eastern end of Laugavegur are practical, with bus links and easy access to the ring road.

Skip the Blue Lagoon if your trip is short and your aim is the city: it is around 45 minutes' drive southwest near Grindavík and can absorb half a day. The Sky Lagoon, just south of the city in Kópavogur, is closer and easier to fit around an evening. Also skip renting a car for the first two days unless you are confident on winter roads; the city is compact and parking in 101 is limited. For the fireworks on New Year's Eve, book accommodation well ahead, as the final week of December is the busiest of the winter.

Questions, answered

How much daylight is there in Reykjavik in December?

Expect roughly four to five hours between about 11am and 4pm, with the sun low on the horizon. The light is soft and blue rather than fully dark, and the city compensates with street lighting and early-opening museums.

Are there Christmas markets in Reykjavik?

Yes, but they are small. The main stalls appear around Ingólfur Square in the centre during Advent, usually closing a few days before 24 December, with additional weekend indoor sales at the Kolaportið flea market by the Old Harbour.

Should I book a northern lights tour in advance?

Book ahead for December, especially the final week, and choose an operator that offers a free re-try on a second night if the first is clouded out. Tours leave from the city centre and BSÍ terminal, typically 45 to 90 minutes from dark-sky sites.

← Iceland's page