Quiet Autumn Towns in East Iceland: Egilsstadir and Seydisfjordur

Two East Fjord settlements where autumn brings empty roads, low cloud and the country's most atmospheric fjord approach.

Why autumn works in East Iceland

East Iceland empties out in September. The Ring Road traffic thins dramatically after the first week of the month, and by late September you can drive from Egilsstadir to Seydisfjordur, 27 km along Route 93, without meeting another car. The trade-off is weather: expect 3-7°C, frequent rain and the first snow dusting the 600 m pass above the fjord. Daylight drops from around 13 hours on 1 September to nine by early October, so plan drives and hikes earlier in the day. Accommodation stays open through September and into October, with easier availability and shorter booking windows than July.

Egilsstadir is the practical base: population around 2,600, an airport with daily flights to Reykjavik, a hospital, a supermarket and the region's main petrol station. Seydisfjordur, 27 km east and 300 m lower, is the pretty one — a 19th-century trading post of Norwegian-style wooden houses strung along a narrow fjord, with the Smyril Line ferry to Denmark calling twice weekly in season. Most travellers drive the pass for a day trip. I would book two nights in Egilsstadir and one in Seydisfjordur, reversing it if the ferry is your departure.

Driving the pass and what to see between them

Route 93 climbs steeply from Egilsstadir onto a plateau of bare gravel and moss, tops out near 600 m, then drops in a series of switchbacks to the fjord. In autumn the road can ice after dark and the pass occasionally closes for short periods in strong wind; check road.is and vedur.is before setting out, and drive it in daylight. The descent is the best stretch of driving in the east — pull in at the viewpoint above the town for the classic view of the blue church and the fjord head. Allow 35-45 minutes each way without stops, longer in poor weather.

Between the two, the standout stop is Hengifoss, Iceland's third-highest waterfall at 128 m, reached by a 2.5 km marked trail from the car park on Route 931. The walk takes 45-60 minutes up and rewards you with red sedimentary layers and, in autumn, thin ice on the final slope — boots with grip matter more than waterproofs here. Nearby, the Hallormsstadaskogur forest, Iceland's largest at around 740 hectares, has gentle marked paths around Atlastadir and is at its best in late September when the birch turns. Skip the forest if time is short; Hengifoss earns the detour.

Seydisfjordur on foot, and the east's quieter corners

Seydisfjordur is small enough to walk in an hour: the Blue Church, the rainbow-painted street leading to it, the old Norwegian houses along Strandargata, and the harbour where the ferry docks. The town has a handful of cafés and a swimming pool, but opening hours shrink sharply after mid-September, so do not arrive expecting a full restaurant scene — check ahead or eat in Egilsstadir. The walk to Tvísöngur, a concrete sound sculpture by the composer Jón Leifs up the valley, takes about 20 minutes each way and is worth it in the low autumn light.

Beyond the two towns, the east thins out fast. South along Route 1, the fjord-side drive to Djúpivogur takes around 1 hour 45 minutes and passes small farms and reindeer country — sightings are possible but never guaranteed. North, the road to Borgarfjordur Eystri, about 70 km and 1 hour 15 minutes from Egilsstadir, is a gravel climb into a village with a working harbour and a puffin colony at Hafnarhólmi that has usually departed by mid-August. Best months for autumn colour and quiet: the second half of September.

Questions, answered

Do I need a 4x4 to drive between Egilsstadir and Seydisfjordur?

No. Route 93 is a sealed road and a normal car is fine from June to September. In October and November, check road conditions first, as the pass can ice and occasionally close for short periods. Winter tyres are the norm on rental cars from around October.

How long does the drive from Egilsstadir to Seydisfjordur take?

Plan on 35 to 45 minutes over the 27 km, without stops. The pass reaches about 600 m, and the road has tight switchbacks on the descent. Add 15 minutes if you stop at the viewpoint above the town, and more in rain, fog or the first snow.

When is the best time to visit East Iceland in autumn?

The second half of September. You keep around 11 hours of daylight on 20 September, most accommodation and cafés are still open, and the birch at Hallormsstadaskogur is turning. By mid-October, days are down to about nine hours and several Seydisfjordur businesses close for the season.

Are the towns busy in September?

No. Ring Road traffic drops sharply after the first week, and midweek nights in Seydisfjordur can feel almost deserted. Egilsstadir stays livelier because of the airport and hospital. You can usually book with a few days' notice, though Seydisfjordur's small guesthouse stock still fills around ferry days.

Where should I stay, Egilsstadir or Seydisfjordur?

Split them. Egilsstadir has more rooms, a supermarket and easier access to Hengifoss and Hallormsstadaskogur; Seydisfjordur has the setting. Two nights in Egilsstadir and one in Seydisfjordur suits most itineraries. Book the fjord night early if your dates line up with the Smyril Line ferry.

Is Hengifoss worth the walk?

Yes. The trail from the Route 931 car park is 2.5 km each way and takes 45 to 60 minutes up. The red sedimentary bands and the 128 m drop make it the east's best short hike. The final slope can ice in autumn, so wear boots with grip.

Can I see puffins in East Iceland in autumn?

No. The colony at Hafnarhólmi near Borgarfjordur Eystri is a summer sighting, roughly May to mid-August. By September the birds are at sea. Make the drive for the harbour village and the coastal scenery instead, and check road conditions for the gravel sections.

How do I get to East Iceland without driving?

Fly to Egilsstadir from Reykjavik in about an hour, then take a local bus or taxi to Seydisfjordur. Or arrive on the Smyril Line ferry from Hirtshals in Denmark, which docks at Seydisfjordur and runs year-round, with more frequent sailings in summer. A car is still the easiest way to reach Hengifoss.

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