Iceland's Geothermal Greenhouses: Visiting and Tasting

How to see, smell and taste Iceland's year-round greenhouse harvest, from Hveragerði's tomato farms to Friðheimar's famous tomato soup.

Why tomatoes grow under the midnight sun

Iceland's short summer and volcanic soils make outdoor vegetables a modest affair, yet geothermally heated greenhouses produce tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, basil and even bananas for much of the year. The geothermal fields around Hveragerði and Flúðir, both within 100 kilometres of Reykjavík, provide hot water and steam for heating and lighting, while hydroelectric power keeps the grow lights running. Geothermal energy heats water for the greenhouses, which lengthens the growing season. The result is a small cluster of farm-based attractions that have become a fixture on the Golden Circle route.

Most greenhouse visits are informal, but a handful of farms have built cafés and tour programmes around the produce. The best months for a visit are June to August, when daylight is long and the greenhouses are in full production; outside those months, you will need to check opening hours, as some cafés shorten their schedules in winter. If you want to see the process rather than just taste the results, aim for a weekday morning, when fewer tour buses stop and staff have more time to talk.

Hveragerði and the tomato farm cafés

The town of Hveragerði, about 45 kilometres east of Reykjavík on Route 1, is the main greenhouse hub, with hot springs steaming through the town centre and several horticultural operations nearby. Friðheimar, a tomato farm east of town, is the best-known stop, offering a short tour and a café serving tomato soup with fresh-baked bread in a greenhouse among the plants. It is popular, and booking ahead is sensible in summer. Nearby, smaller farms along the same road offer produce and short walks; the Hveragerði geothermal park is free and worth an hour.

For a less crowded experience, head to Flúðir, roughly 100 kilometres from Reykjavík and about 25 minutes further along the Golden Circle. The village has greenhouse cafés and the Secret Lagoon, and the pace is noticeably slower than Friðheimar. I would base myself in Hveragerði for one or two nights, which puts you within easy reach of both greenhouse areas and the Golden Circle sights. In Reykjavík, hotels cluster around Laugavegur and the old harbour; Hveragerði has guesthouses and small hotels, with rooms in the mid-to-upper range in summer.

Planning the route and what to skip

If you are driving from Reykjavík, take Route 1 east, stopping at Hveragerði, then continue on Route 35 toward Flúðir, where you can link up with the Golden Circle and return via Selfoss and Route 1. Allow a full day for the loop, more if you want a greenhouse tour and lunch. Buses run between Reykjavík and Hveragerði, but onward connections to Flúðir are limited, so a car or a guided tour is the practical choice. Petrol stations are sparse between towns, so fill up in Hveragerði or Selfoss.

Skip the temptation to visit three or four greenhouse operations in one day; two is plenty, and the experience is more about the setting than the number of stops. Winter visits are possible but require checking café schedules in advance. My booking would be a two-night stay in Hveragerði with a car, giving you a relaxed morning at Friðheimar and an afternoon at Flúðir, leaving time for a hot spring walk.

Tasting what you see

Greenhouse cafés in Iceland focus on a short menu built around what is grown on site: tomato soup, cucumber salad, and bread baked with geothermal steam. Some farms sell fresh produce, jams and sauces to take home, though import rules vary by country, so check before packing food. Prices are broadly comparable to other Icelandic lunch stops and are generally moderate; expect a set soup-and-bread lunch rather than an à la carte menu.

Taste the difference the growing method makes: Icelandic greenhouse tomatoes are often sold on the vine in local supermarkets, and the flavour in summer is noticeably sweet. Fresh basil, cucumbers and peppers are also available, sometimes at farm-gate prices. Buy salad ingredients for a self-catered lunch and pair them with bread from a local bakery. For the return drive, consider a coffee stop in Selfoss, the largest town in the south, before rejoining Route 1 back to Reykjavík.

Questions, answered

Do I need to book a greenhouse visit in advance?

For Friðheimar in summer, yes—bookings are recommended because the café is popular with tour groups. Smaller farms and cafés in Flúðir usually accept walk-ins, but check opening hours, especially outside June to August.

How far are the greenhouses from Reykjavík?

Hveragerði is about 45 kilometres east of Reykjavík on Route 1, roughly 40 minutes by car. Flúðir is a further 55 kilometres or so along Route 35 toward the Golden Circle, adding about 25 to 30 minutes.

Is a greenhouse visit worth it in winter?

Yes, if you check schedules first. Production continues under grow lights, and the cafés are quieter, but some farms shorten hours from September to May, so plan around confirmed opening times rather than assuming.

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