Iceland's East Fjords Villages: A Slow Drive Between Stops

The East Fjords reward travellers who trade the Ring Road sprint for short hops between fishing villages, with ferries, hikes and quiet harbours filling the days between.

Setting the pace from Egilsstaðir

Most East Fjords itineraries begin in Egilsstaðir, the region's service town on the Ring Road and the junction for Route 92 toward Reyðarfjörður and Route 94 to Seyðisfjörður. From Egilsstaðir to Seyilsfjörður is roughly 27 kilometres over the Fjarðarheiði pass, a drive of about 30 to 40 minutes in good summer conditions and considerably slower in wind, fog or early-season snow. The pass can close in winter, so check road conditions at the Egilsstaðir information point before setting out. Fuel up here: after Egilsstaðir, petrol stations thin out badly along the coast and some close early or on Sundays.

Village guesthouses in the East Fjords typically sit in the mid-to-upper band for rural Iceland, with the cheapest rooms often in older farm stays and the priciest in renovated harbour buildings. If you plan to use the region as a base rather than a pass-through, book two nights in or near Egilsstaðir on arrival and keep the rest flexible; weather often decides which side fjords you actually reach. The town also has the region's largest supermarket and pharmacy, which matters more than it sounds once you are 60 kilometres from the next shop.

Seyðisfjörður and the northern arm

Seyðisfjörður is the picture-postcard stop: a fjord-end village reached by a switchback descent, with the blue church, the old herring-era wooden houses and a small lake at its centre. The Norræna ferry to Mjóistrði and continental Europe calls here, so sailing timetables sometimes shape the town's rhythm. The walk to Tvísöngur, a concrete sound sculpture above the village, takes about 20 minutes uphill and is worth an early evening. Cafés and the arts centre cluster along the main street; opening hours are seasonal, and several places close outside June to August.

Continue south on Route 92/96 toward Reyðarfjörður and Eskifjörður, where the road hugs water most of the way. Reyðarfjörður has a wartime museum in the old barracks area and a fjord-side walk; Eskifjörður, about 20 minutes further, is smaller and quieter, with a spar shop and a good swimming pool. The drive from Seyðisfjörður to Eskifjörður is roughly 70 kilometres, allow 1.5 hours with photo stops. I would spend a night in Seyðisfjörður for atmosphere and a second in Eskifjörður or Reyðarfjörður for practicality, rather than trying to cover both in one afternoon.

The southern fjords and their detours

South of Eskifjörður the road continues through Fáskrúðsfjörður, a village with a French-hospital heritage and a small museum, then Stöðvarfjörður, home to a celebrated private stone collection that has long drawn travellers off the main road. Neskaupstaður, reached by a tunnel from Eskifjörður, sits at the end of a long fjord and feels more like a small town, with a pool, a museum and a supermarket. Distances are modest on the map but slow in practice: 100 kilometres along these fjords can take two hours or more, because the road bends around every inlet and often narrows to a single lane with passing places.

The southern stretch toward Djúpivogur and Breiðdalsvík opens into wider views and easier driving. Djúpivogur has a harbour, a lagoon walk and the Eggin í Gleðivík installation of stone eggs on the shore; Breiðdalsvík is a genuinely quiet village with a microbrewery and a long black beach nearby. For hikers, the Víknaslóðir trails south of Borgarfjörður Eystri, reached by Route 94 from Egilsstaðir, offer several days of marked routes without crowds. Book accommodation in Djúpivogur or Breiðdalsvík if you want to break the run toward Höfn, since the next reliable cluster of rooms is hours away.

What to book, and what to skip

My recommendation for a first East Fjords trip is three nights: one in Seyðisfjörður, one in Eskifjörður or Reyðarfjörður, and one in Djúpivogur or Breiðdalsvík. That spread keeps daily drives under about 90 minutes and leaves time for the passes, the pools and the walks. Late June through August gives the best road conditions and the longest daylight; May and September are quieter and cheaper but bring changeable weather and reduced opening hours. If you are travelling in winter, stay on the main routes, avoid the smaller fjord roads after dark and treat the Fjarðarheiði pass as a fair-weather route.

Skip the temptation to tick off every village in two days. Neskaupstaður is worth the tunnel detour only if you have a spare afternoon; otherwise the out-and-back adds hours for a modest payoff. Borgarfjörður Eystri is superb for puffins at Hafnarhólmi in summer but is a dead end, so commit to an overnight rather than a rushed return. Above all, do not book non-refundable rooms along the coast in shoulder season without checking the ferry timetable and road closures first. The East Fjords reward patience, and a slower booking is usually the better one.

Questions, answered

How many days do you need for Iceland's East Fjords?

Three nights is a sensible minimum for the villages between Egilsstaðir and Djúpivogur, with four or five nights allowing detours to Borgarfjörður Eystri and Neskaupstaður. Fewer than two nights means most of your time is spent driving rather than stopping.

When is the best time to drive the East Fjords?

Late June to August offers the best conditions, with long daylight and all services open. May and September are quieter and often cheaper, though some cafés and museums keep reduced hours. Winter driving is possible on main routes but the mountain passes can close at short notice.

Do you need a four-wheel drive in the East Fjords?

For the paved Ring Road and the village routes, an ordinary car is sufficient in summer. Four-wheel drive helps in shoulder season and is essential for gravel detours such as the roads toward Borgarfjörður Eystri and Lónsöræfi. Always check road conditions before setting out.

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