Iceland's Christmas Food: What to Try and Where

From smoked lamb to leaf bread, here's what to eat in Iceland at Christmas and the best places in Reykjavík and beyond to find it.

The Christmas Plate: Hangikjöt, Laufabrauð and More

The centrepiece of an Icelandic Christmas meal is hangikjöt, smoked lamb that's boiled and served cold or warm. You'll find it in supermarkets like Bónus and Krónan, but for the best quality, head to a butcher like Kjöt&Fiskur in Reykjavík. A typical Christmas plate includes hangikjöt, boiled potatoes, peas, pickled red cabbage and laufabrauð, a thin, fried leaf bread. Laufabrauð is often homemade and decorated with intricate patterns; you can buy it ready-made at bakeries such as Sandholt on Laugavegur. Expect to pay around 2,000–3,000 ISK for a meal in a restaurant, or 1,500 ISK for a pack of laufabrauð.

Another seasonal favourite is rúgbrauð, a dense rye bread traditionally baked in geothermal ground. It's sold in most bakeries and supermarkets, often in dark, cake-like loaves. During Christmas, it's served with hangikjöt or used for sandwiches. If you're in Reykjavík, try the geothermal rye bread at Brauð & Co. on Frakkastígur; a loaf costs about 1,000 ISK. For a full Christmas buffet, many restaurants offer a spread including hangikjöt, rúgbrauð, and other specialties. Expect to pay 5,000–7,000 ISK per person. Book ahead, as these buffets are popular with locals and fill up quickly in December.

Where to Eat Christmas Food in Reykjavík

In Reykjavík, the best place to sample traditional Christmas food is at a jólahlaðborð (Christmas buffet). Restaurants like Lækjarbrekka on Bankastræti and Kaffivagninn on the old harbour offer these buffets throughout December. Lækjarbrekka's buffet includes hangikjöt, smoked salmon, herring, and a selection of desserts; it's priced around 7,500 ISK per person. Kaffivagninn, a more casual spot, offers a similar spread for about 5,500 ISK. Both require reservations, especially for weekend evenings. If you're staying near Laugavegur, these are within walking distance.

For a quicker taste, many cafés serve Christmas plates at lunch. Try Café Loki near Hallgrímskirkja for a traditional plate with hangikjöt, rúgbrauð, and a small leaf bread, around 2,500 ISK. Another option is the Christmas market at Ingólfur Square, usually held on weekends in December, where food stalls sell treats like smoked lamb wraps and kleina (a twisted donut). The market is free to enter, and portions are around 1,000–1,500 ISK. Keep in mind that opening hours vary, so check ahead. If you're booking a hotel, choose one in the 101 area to be close to these spots.

Beyond the Capital: Local Christmas Specialties

Outside Reykjavík, Christmas food traditions are strong. In the Westfjords, try skata, fermented skate, a pungent dish served around Christmas. It's an acquired taste, but if you're adventurous, head to a local restaurant like Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður, which serves it in December (about 4,000 ISK). In North Iceland, Akureyri's Christmas market in the town centre features local producers selling hangikjöt and homemade laufabrauð. The market is open on weekends in December, and it's a good place to buy edible gifts. For accommodation, the Hotel Kea is centrally located, but book early as December is busy.

In South Iceland, many farm stays offer Christmas dinners with local lamb and homemade bread. For example, guesthouses near Hvolsvöllur often serve a traditional meal if you book ahead. Prices vary, but expect around 6,000 ISK for a three-course dinner. If you're driving the Ring Road in winter, check road conditions on road.is before setting out; many rural roads close in bad weather. The best months for Christmas food are December through early January, but note that some rural restaurants close for the holidays, so call ahead. If you want a festive atmosphere without the crowds, consider visiting in early December.

Practical Tips for a Christmas Food Trip

December in Iceland is dark, with only about four to five hours of daylight. Plan your food outings around lunchtime or early afternoon to make the most of the light. Temperatures hover around freezing, so dress warmly. Many restaurants offer Christmas buffets only on certain days, so check their websites or call to confirm. Public transport in Reykjavík is limited on holidays, but the city centre is walkable. If you're staying outside the centre, taxis are available but can be pricey; a ride from the suburbs to downtown might cost 2,000–3,000 ISK. Book your hotel early, as December is peak season for locals and tourists alike.

For self-catering, supermarkets like Bónus have good selection of Christmas foods, including hangikjöt and laufabrauð, at lower prices than restaurants. A pack of hangikjöt (500g) costs around 2,000 ISK. Note that many shops close early on Christmas Eve (24 December) and are closed on Christmas Day and Boxing Day. If you're arriving on those days, stock up beforehand. Also, try the Christmas beers from local breweries like Ölvisholt Brugghús; they're available in state-run Vínbúðin stores. A six-pack costs about 2,500 ISK. Remember to drink responsibly and never drink and drive.

Questions, answered

What is hangikjöt and where can I try it?

Hangikjöt is smoked lamb, a traditional Icelandic Christmas dish. You can try it at restaurants offering Christmas buffets, such as Lækjarbrekka in Reykjavík, or buy it ready-to-eat from supermarkets like Bónus.

Is there a Christmas market in Reykjavík?

Yes, Ingólfur Square hosts a Christmas market on weekends in December, with food stalls selling traditional treats like smoked lamb wraps and kleina. Entry is free.

What is laufabrauð and where can I buy it?

Laufabrauð is a thin, fried leaf bread eaten at Christmas. You can buy it at bakeries like Sandholt on Laugavegur or make it yourself; it's often decorated with patterns.

Are Christmas buffets expensive in Iceland?

Yes, they can be. Expect to pay around 5,000–7,500 ISK per person at restaurants in Reykjavík. Supermarkets offer cheaper options if you're on a budget.

What is skata and where can I try it?

Skata is fermented skate, a pungent dish served around Christmas, especially in the Westfjords. Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður serves it in December.

Do I need to book restaurants for Christmas meals?

Yes, especially for Christmas buffets. December is busy, so reserve ahead to avoid disappointment.

What are the opening hours during Christmas in Iceland?

Many businesses close early on Christmas Eve and are closed on Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Check opening hours and stock up on food if needed.

Can I find Christmas food outside Reykjavík?

Yes, many rural restaurants and guesthouses offer traditional Christmas meals, but call ahead as hours vary and some places close for the holidays.

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