Iceland in May: Where the Thaw Opens the Roads

May is when the highland tracks stay shut but the ring road, the south coast waterfalls and the Westfjords' cliff roads open up under nearly twenty hours of usable light.

What May Actually Changes on the Ground

The single most useful fact about May is that the F-roads into Landmannalaugar, Askja and Kjölur usually remain closed until mid-to-late June, so any itinerary built around the interior should move to July or August. What does open is the lowland ring: Route 1 clears fully, the Westfjords' Route 60 over Dynjandisheiði typically reopens, and the隧道 under Hvalfjörður removes the old detour on the way north. Daylight on 15 May in Reykjavík runs roughly 04:30 to 22:45, so you can drive the 200 km from Reykjavík to Vík, walk Reynisfjara and still reach Jökulsárlón before midnight twilight.

The thaw is the other change, and it is not purely good news. Snowmelt swells the south-coast rivers, so the Skógá river below Skógafoss runs hard in early May, and the gravel paths behind Seljalandsfoss get slick. Gullfoss is at high volume and the spray soaks anyone within twenty metres, which is why a waterproof shell beats an umbrella. Midges arrive around Mývatn later in the month rather than in the first fortnight. Frost still forms on inland grass on clear nights well into May, even when Reykjavík sits at 8°C.

Where to Base Yourself, and Why I Would Split the Trip

I would not run a May trip from one hotel. Two nights in Reykjavík 101 or 105 covers the city, the Blue Lagoon road and the Golden Circle day, and the capital has the densest hotel stock on the island, with the greatest choice in the 101 and 105 postcodes and around Hlemmur square. Then move east: Hvolsvöllur or Vík for the south coast waterfalls, and Höfn if you want Jökulsárlón and the Vatnajökull glacier tongue without a five-hour return drive. Driving Reykjavík to Höfn is about 450 km, roughly five and a half hours without stops.

For the west, Stykkishólmur on Snæfellsnes and Ísafjörður in the Westfjords are the two logical bases, and the 450 km from Reykjavík to Ísafjörður takes around six hours with the tunnel at Hvalfjörður and the ferry-free route. Akureyri suits the north and the Mývatn circuit, with the 390 km from Reykjavík taking about four and a half hours on Route 1. On a seven-night trip I would book Reykjavík two nights, Vík two, Höfn one and Akureyri two, and I would skip the Westfjords entirely unless the trip runs to ten nights.

Waterfalls, Wildlife and the May Calendar

The waterfall circuit in May is at its most forceful. Seljalandsfoss allows a walk behind the curtain, though the ledge is wet; Skógafoss is a 25-metre-wide fall with a 527-step staircase alongside, and the spray makes the top steps slippery. Further east, Dettifoss on Route 862 is the most powerful in Europe by volume, and the access road from the west side is usually passable by late May. Gullfoss and the Geysir field at Haukadalur, where Strokkur erupts every few minutes, sit on the same Golden Circle loop about 100 km from Reykjavík.

Wildlife timing matters more than most visitors expect. Puffins return to their burrows at Látrabjarg and Dyrhólaey from late April, and the Dyrhólaey colony is the easiest to reach from Vík. Harbour seals haul out at Jökulsárlón's mouth and at Vatnsnes in the north. Whale-watching from Húsavík and Akureyri starts in earnest in May, with humpbacks the usual sighting. The Kjölur and Sprengisandur highland routes stay shut, so do not plan a crossing. The first weekend of May is a public-holiday weekend in Iceland and Reykjavík hotels fill early.

Practical Booking Notes for May

Rates in May sit below the July peak but above April, and the difference between the first and last week of the month is real: late May brings the first summer crowds to Vík and the Golden Circle. Book the south coast and Mývatn accommodation first, because those villages have the thinnest stock and no overflow into neighbouring towns within an hour. Reykjavík has the deepest inventory and the best last-minute options, so it is the one place you can leave to a week before. Car hire with gravel insurance is worth the extra for the Westfjords and the Eastfjords gravel stretches.

Fuel up whenever you pass a station east of Vík and north of Akureyri; the gaps are long. Check road.is and vedur.is each morning, because a May squall can close the Öxi pass or the Mývatn highland approach for a few hours. The Blue Lagoon and Sky Lagoon both need timed pre-booking. Carry a swimsuit for the public pools in every town, and cash is unnecessary — cards work everywhere, including the N1 pumps. Pack layers rather than a heavy coat; a 5°C morning in Ísafjörður and a 12°C afternoon in Akureyri happen on the same day.

Questions, answered

Is May a good month to visit Iceland?

Yes, for the south coast, Snæfellsnes and the north. The ring road is clear, daylight runs to nearly twenty hours, and rates sit below July. The highland interior is closed, so skip Landmannalaugar and Askja unless you travel in late June or later.

Can I see the northern lights in May?

Effectively no. The aurora season ends in mid-April because the nights are too bright; by 15 May twilight lasts most of the night in Reykjavík. Book September to March if the northern lights are the priority.

How much daylight is there in Iceland in May?

In Reykjavík, sunrise on 1 May is around 05:00 and sunset near 21:45; by 31 May it runs roughly 03:15 to 23:30. Further north in Akureyri the days are longer still. You can drive and sightsee far into the evening.

Do I need a 4x4 in Iceland in May?

Only for gravel roads in the Westfjords and Eastfjords, or the Dettifoss west-bank access. Route 1 and the Golden Circle are fine in a standard car. The F-roads remain closed in May, so a 4x4 will not get you into the highlands yet.

What should I pack for Iceland in May?

A waterproof shell, warm mid-layer, hat and gloves, and sturdy boots. Temperatures in Reykjavík average around 7°C, with frost possible inland at night. Bring a swimsuit for the public pools and geothermally heated facilities in most towns.

How far ahead should I book hotels for May in Iceland?

Book Vík, Höfn, Ísafjörður and the Mývatn area two to three months ahead, because accommodation is limited and there is no nearby overflow. Reykjavík has the deepest stock and can often be booked a week or two out, especially outside the first weekend of May.

Is the Blue Lagoon worth it in May?

It is convenient, 20 minutes from Keflavík airport and 50 from Reykjavík, but pre-book a timed slot. For fewer crowds, the public pools in every town and the Mývatn Nature Baths in the north are cheaper and quieter, and the north one is less busy in May.

Can I drive the whole ring road in May?

Yes, Route 1 is normally fully open by May, and the 1,332 km loop takes about seven days with stops. Check road.is daily; the Öxi pass and the Eastfjords can close for a few hours in a spring squall. Add days rather than rush the east.

← Iceland's page