Driving and Flying to Ísafjörður: A Practical Guide to the Westfjords

The Westfjords are reachable without a package tour, but the route you choose decides how much of the region you actually see.

The Flight: 40 Minutes and One Narrow Runway

The quickest option is the domestic flight from Reykjavík to Ísafjörður, roughly 40 minutes on a small turboprop. Flights leave from Reykjavík Airport by Vatnsmýri, not Keflavík, so if you land on an international flight you need a transfer into the city first. Book well ahead in June, July and August; the aircraft are small and seats go early. The runway at Ísafjörður sits on a spit below the town, and approaches can be bumpy in winter wind, which is why some travellers treat the flight as a summer-only plan.

On arrival you are a short taxi ride or a twenty-minute walk from the harbour and the old town centre. There is no car hire counter worth relying on at the airport, so arrange a vehicle in Ísafjörður in advance if you plan to explore the surrounding fjords. The flight suits anyone with two or three days to spare who would rather spend them walking than driving, and it is the option I would book for a short first visit.

The Drive: Route 60 and the Strandir Coast

Driving from Reykjavík takes a full day. The usual route is Route 1 north to Borgarnes, then Route 60 across the Brattabrekka pass and through the villages of the west, via Búðardalur and Hólmavík, before following the coast around Steingrímsfjörður. Plan on seven to eight hours with stops, and treat the last stretch past Hólmavík as slow going: much of it is gravel, single-lane in places, with blind crests and sheep. Fill the tank at Borgarnes and again at Hólmavík; beyond that, fuel is scarce.

The alternative is Route 61 north from Hólmavík along the Strandir coast, which is beautiful and even slower. Either way, the drive rewards anyone with time and a tolerance for unpaved roads. I would not attempt it in a compact hire car in October; gravel damage is a real cost. A mid-size SUV and a relaxed schedule make this the better choice for travellers with four days or more who want the journey itself to be part of the trip.

Where to Base Yourself

Ísafjörður itself is the natural base. The old town around Kirkjuból and the streets below the mountains have guesthouses and small hotels within walking distance of the harbour, the Westfjords Heritage Museum and the swimming pool. Book early for the July music festival period, when the town fills up. From here you can reach the puffin cliffs at Látrabjarg in about two and a half hours on gravel, and the beach at Rauðasandur in slightly less, though both are day trips rather than quick hops.

Bolungarvík, twenty minutes north, is quieter and cheaper for families, but you will drive into Ísafjörður for dinner. Súðavík, twenty minutes east, is handy for the seal watching at Hvítanes. Suðureyri, at the end of the tunnel, suits anyone who wants a small fishing village and a pool with a view. For a first visit I would choose central Ísafjörður: walkable, close to the museum and the ferries, and the least car-dependent.

The Ferry and What to Skip

The Baldur ferry from Stykkishólmur on Snæfellsnes to Brjánslækur takes about two and a half hours and cuts out a long southern loop, but it lands you at the southern edge of the Westfjords, still three hours from Ísafjörður on gravel. It is a scenic shortcut, not a substitute for the drive. In summer, book the car space with the ticket; foot passengers can usually turn up, cars cannot. The crossing is calm more often than not, but the wind across Breiðafjörður can make it lively.

Skip the temptation to see the whole region in two days. The distances look small on the map and are not. If you have only a weekend, fly in, stay in Ísafjörður, walk the town and take one day trip. Leave Látrabjarg and the southern cliffs for a longer visit, and keep the drive for a trip when you have a week and can stop at Hólmavík and the Strandir coast without watching the clock. Best months for the drive are June to early September; the flight works year-round but winter weather can delay it.

Questions, answered

Do I need a four-wheel drive for the Westfjords?

Not for the main Route 60 to Ísafjörður in summer, but a mid-size car with decent clearance is wiser than a compact. Gravel sections and steep passes are common, and the southern strands to Látrabjarg are rough. In winter, check road conditions daily.

How long should I allow for the drive from Reykjavík?

A full day each way, realistically seven to eight hours with short stops. Add a night in Hólmavík or Búðardalur to break it up. Distances are short on paper but slow on gravel, and sheep and blind crests keep speeds down.

Is the ferry from Stykkishólmur worth it?

As a scenic shortcut, yes, especially if you are combining Snæfellsnes and the southern Westfjords. It saves driving but lands you three hours from Ísafjörður. Book car space in summer; foot passengers can usually travel without a reservation.

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