Autumn in Mosfellsbær: Walks, Food and Where to Stay

Just 15 minutes from Reykjavík, Mosfellsbær offers golden birch woods, a famous salmon river and a quiet base for autumn exploring.

Why Mosfellsbær in September and October

Autumn turns the valleys around Mosfellsbær gold and rust, and the crowds thin out after August. Daytime temperatures sit around 5–8°C, with crisp mornings and the first frosts arriving by mid-October. The town sits at the mouth of Mosfellsdalur valley, 15 km northeast of Reykjavík, about a 20-minute drive along Route 1 or a 30-minute bus ride on Strætó route 15 from Hlemmur. It is a genuine residential town, not a tourist village, which means supermarkets, a swimming pool and everyday cafés stay open and reasonably priced while Reykjavík hotel rates climb.

The main draws are the hiking trails in the surrounding hills and the salmon river Varmá, which runs right through town. In autumn the riverbanks are quiet, and you can often have a trail to yourself on a weekday. The area also makes a sensible base if you plan day trips to Þingvellir (a 45-minute drive) or the Golden Circle, since you avoid Reykjavík's morning traffic. Just note that some summer services, like the guided lava tunnel tours at Leiðarendi, operate on reduced schedules after mid-September, so check ahead.

Walks and trails around town

The most accessible walk is the path along Varmá from the town centre to the Reykjavík side of the valley. It is flat, about 3 km one way, and passes the old wool factory at Álafoss, now a shop and café. For something steeper, head up to Mosfell (about 250 m) from the car park at Mosfellsdalur; the climb takes 30–45 minutes and gives wide views over the fjord and Reykjavík. The trail can be muddy after rain, so waterproof boots are worth packing. Another good option is the wooded area at Hólmsheiði, 10 minutes south, where marked paths wind through birch and larch that turn bright yellow in late September.

If you have a car, drive 20 minutes east to the trailhead for Þingvallavatn's northern shore, where the Öxará river path is especially lovely in autumn. For a gentle evening stroll, the paved loop around the Mosfellsbær sports field and the nearby lake at Reykjadalur (not the hot river) is popular with locals. Horse riding is also available at several farms in the valley, with hourly rides typically costing 8,000–12,000 ISK; book a day ahead in autumn as groups are smaller. I would skip the busier Reykjavík city trails on weekends and choose Mosfellsbær's quieter paths instead.

Eating and drinking locally

Mosfellsbær has a handful of reliable spots. The café at Álafoss wool factory serves good coffee, cakes and light lunches like soup and sandwiches, with prices around 1,500–2,500 ISK for a main. For something heartier, the town centre has a pizzeria and a grill house that both stay open year-round; expect a main course to cost 2,500–4,000 ISK. The local Bónus supermarket is the cheapest option for self-catering, and many guesthouses and apartments have kitchenettes, which helps keep autumn food costs down.

If you want a special meal, drive 15 minutes to Reykjavík's Old Harbour for seafood, but be aware that autumn is also when many restaurants switch to shorter hours. In Mosfellsbær itself, the swimming pool and its small café are a nice low-key lunch stop after a morning walk. For a quick treat, the bakery in the town centre sells fresh bread and pastries until early afternoon. I would book a table on a Friday or Saturday evening in September, as locals fill the few restaurants once the summer visitors leave.

Where to stay and what to book

Accommodation in Mosfellsbær is mostly guesthouses, small hotels and self-catering apartments rather than large chain hotels. In autumn, double rooms typically range from 18,000 to 30,000 ISK per night, with apartments for two from 22,000 ISK. Staying here is usually 20–30% cheaper than central Reykjavík for the same standard, and you get free parking. The trade-off is that you need a car or rely on Strætó buses, which run less frequently in the evening. The town's main cluster of guesthouses is within walking distance of the Varmá path and the Álafoss factory, which is handy for morning walks.

For a first trip, I would book a guesthouse in the town centre with breakfast included, so you can start early without hunting for food. If you are travelling as a family or plan to cook, choose a self-catering apartment near the Bónus supermarket. Avoid booking a place far up Mosfellsdalur valley without a car, as taxis are expensive and buses are sparse. October can bring sudden wind and rain, so prioritise accommodation with a hot tub or sauna if you want to unwind after a wet hike. Always confirm cancellation terms, as autumn weather can disrupt travel plans.

Questions, answered

Do I need a car to enjoy Mosfellsbær in autumn?

A car makes it much easier, especially for reaching trailheads and evening restaurants. Buses run to Reykjavík but are less frequent after 7pm. If you stay in the town centre, you can walk to the Varmá path and cafés, but a car is best for exploring the valley.

What should I pack for autumn walks near Mosfellsbær?

Waterproof boots, a windproof and rainproof jacket, warm layers, a hat and gloves. Trails can be muddy and weather changes quickly. A small backpack with water and snacks is useful, as there are few shops once you leave the town centre. Daylight fades by 6pm in October.

Is Mosfellsbær a good base for the Golden Circle?

Yes. You are already northeast of Reykjavík, so you skip city traffic. Þingvellir is about 45 minutes away, Geysir around 1 hour 15 minutes, and Gullfoss another 20 minutes. An early start from Mosfellsbær lets you reach the main stops before the tour buses.

← Iceland's page