A Week in West Iceland: Snaefellsnes, Borgarfjordur and Beyond

A practical seven-day loop through West Iceland, with driving distances, the months that work, and where to base yourself between Reykjavik and the Snaefellsnes peninsula.

Route and timing: how the week fits together

West Iceland is a loop, not a list of stops. From Reykjavik, Route 1 runs north through the Hvalfjordur tunnel to Borgarnes, about 75 kilometres or an hour's drive, and that town is the natural hinge for the whole circuit. Day trips west of Borgarnes reach the fjords of Borgarfjordur, the hot spring at Deildartunguhver and the waterfalls Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. The Snaefellsnes peninsula sits another 60 to 90 kilometres west, and from there you can circle back east along Route 54 through Stykkisholmur or cut south to the Snaefellsjokull glacier and back to Route 1.

Late May through September gives you long daylight and every road open. July and August are the busiest and most expensive weeks in the Icelandic calendar, so book beds early. If you want fewer tour buses at the peninsula's famous stops, June or the first half of September are the sweet spot. Winter is possible along the lower routes, but mountain roads over to the glacier close, and driving conditions can change within hours. For a first week in the region, I would build the loop in late June and plan nothing tighter than two nights in Snaefellsnes.

Borgarfjordur and the inland stops

The Borgarfjordur valley is often skipped by people racing west, which is why it works so well as a first two nights. Reykholt, 20 minutes from Borgarnes, has hot springs and a reconstructed medieval church; the nearby Deildartunguhver spring pushes out more water than any other in Europe and is a ten-minute stop. Hraunfossar, where water seeps out of a lava field into the Hvita river, and Barnafoss next door are worth an hour. The hike up to Glymur, Iceland's tallest waterfall at nearly 200 metres, starts at the head of Hvalfjordur and takes three to four hours round trip.

Basing yourself in Borgarnes gives you a supermarket, fuel and a short drive to all of it. Hotels and guesthouses there run from simple farmstays to the larger country hotels on the town's edge, and availability tightens in July, so reserve well ahead. I would book two nights here and use the second for the inland waterfall route rather than trying to loop the whole peninsula on the first afternoon. That mistake is the most common one visitors make on this stretch.

Snaefellsnes: where to stay and what to skip

Snaefellsnes is roughly 90 kilometres long, and the two realistic bases are Stykkisholmur on the north coast and the villages nearer the glacier. Stykkisholmur has the harbour, the ferry to Flatey and the best choice of guesthouses and hotels; it suits travellers who want a town with services. The southern side, around Arnarstapi and Hellnar, puts you within a short walk of the cliff paths and the Snaefellsjokull glacier, but the food and fuel options are thinner. For a two-night stay I would choose Stykkisholmur in summer and the southern side if you want the coast path at sunrise.

Do not try to drive Snaefellsnes in one day from Reykjavik; you will spend the best hours behind the wheel. The peninsula's classic stops — Kirkjufell near Grundarfjordur, the black beach at Djupalonssandur and the lava tube at Vatnshellir — are spread over a full day's driving. Skip the extra detour to the far western tip unless the weather is clear, because the reward is the view and the view is not guaranteed. Fuel up at Olafsvik or Stykkisholmur before heading south; the gaps between stations are longer than the map suggests.

Practicalities, booking and the drive back

Prices in this region follow Reykjavik: expect mid-range guesthouses and country hotels to be the value choice, with the peninsula's summer rates climbing sharply in July and August. Booking direct with a local partner gives you clearer cancellation terms than the large booking sites, which matters when weather can close a road. Fuel is sold at Borgarnes, Stykkisholmur and Olafsvik, and a rental car is the only sensible way to see West Iceland at your own pace; the few public bus routes do not reach the main sights. Pack layers, a waterproof shell and eye protection — wind on the coast is not a minor detail.

For the return, give yourself a half-day and stop at the Settlement Centre in Borgarnes, then take Route 1 back through the Hvalfjordur tunnel, or the scenic old road around the fjord if you have time. My own booking would be two nights in Borgarnes and two in Stykkisholmur, with the final day left free for weather. That leaves the glacier, the coast paths and the hot springs with real time to spare, rather than a checklist driven at speed.

Questions, answered

Do I need a car to see West Iceland?

Yes, practically. Public buses run to Borgarnes but do not reach the Snaefellsnes sights. A rental car from Reykjavik is the standard option, and the loop is roughly 500 kilometres over a week, on mostly sealed roads.

When is the best time to visit Snaefellsnes?

June or early September gives long daylight with fewer tour buses. July and August bring the warmest weather and the highest hotel rates. Winter travel is limited to the lower roads, and the mountain tracks to the glacier are closed.

How many nights should I spend on the peninsula?

Two nights is the minimum for a relaxed visit, staying in Stykkisholmur or near Arnarstapi. One night works only if you skip the western tip. Three nights lets you add the ferry to Flatey or a guided glacier walk.

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