Georgian Supra: How a Traditional Feast Works

A traveller's guide to the toasts, dishes and etiquette of Georgia's legendary feast, with practical tips for Tbilisi and beyond.

What to Expect at a Supra

A supra is a feast that anchors Georgian social life, and as a visitor you may encounter it in a family home or a restaurant. Expect a table laden with cold and hot dishes, often brought out in waves rather than courses. A tamada, or toastmaster, leads the meal, and toasts are central. The meal can last two to four hours or more, and it is considered rude to rush. In Tbilisi, popular neighborhoods like Vake and Saburtalo have many supra-style restaurants, while in Batumi the old town and seafront areas offer similar experiences with a Black Sea twist.

The food itself is diverse: khachapuri (cheese bread), khinkali (dumplings), and an array of vegetable dishes like pkhali (walnut paste) and badrijani (eggplant rolls). Meat dishes such as mtsvadi (grilled skewers) and chakapuli (herb stew) are common. Wine flows freely, and the tamada often calls for a toast with a specific theme—peace, family, friendship, or the deceased. As a guest, you are not expected to lead toasts, but you should participate by raising your glass and taking a sip. In Georgia, it's acceptable to decline alcohol; simply say "madloba" (thank you) and explain politely.

Etiquette and Participation

When invited to a supra, it's polite to bring a small gift for the host—flowers, sweets, or a bottle of wine. Upon arrival, you'll be directed to a seat; wait to be told where to sit. The tamada may offer you a toast, and you should respond briefly and sincerely. If you don't speak Georgian, a few words in English are fine, or you can ask a local to translate. In restaurants, the tamada role is often assumed by the host of the group, but some supra-style restaurants offer a professional tamada for hire, especially in Tbilisi and Batumi. Such services can be arranged through your hotel, and they can enhance the experience for larger groups.

Drinking customs: Georgians often say "Gaumarjos!" (to victory) or "Boolos!" (to the deceased) when toasting. It's customary to empty your glass when a toast is made, but you can leave a little if you must. If you don't drink alcohol, you can toast with water or juice; the important thing is to participate. At the table, you'll notice that dishes are shared, and you should serve yourself from the common plates. Use the utensils provided. If you're unsure, watch what others do. The meal ends with sweets and coffee, and the tamada will make a final toast. After the meal, it's polite to thank the host and tamada.

Where to Experience a Supra in Georgia

In Tbilisi, you can find supra-style restaurants in the old town, particularly along Kote Abkhazi Street and in the Abanotubani district. These places often cater to tourists but maintain traditional atmospheres. For a more authentic experience, head to the outskirts, like the village of Mtskheta (about 30 minutes from Tbilisi), where family-run restaurants offer home-style supras. In Batumi, the seafood-rich Adjarian supra is a highlight; try restaurants near the Batumi Piazza or along the waterfront. Kutaisi, Georgia's second-largest city, has a growing food scene with supras featuring Imeretian cuisine, such as khachapuri Imeruli. If you're based in Tbilisi, consider a day trip to the Kakheti wine region (about 2 hours by car), where wineries often host supras paired with local wines.

For travellers planning a trip, it's best to book a hotel in a central area to easily access these dining spots. In Tbilisi, hotels in Rustaveli Avenue or Freedom Square are convenient for old town restaurants. In Batumi, the Old Town or near the beach is ideal. Prices for a supra in a restaurant can range from 30 to 70 GEL per person (about $10-25), depending on the venue and drinks. Homestays or guesthouses may offer supra dinners for an additional fee, often around 20-30 GEL. The best months to visit for a supra experience are May, June, September, and October, when the weather is pleasant and fresh produce is abundant. Summer can be hot in Tbilisi, but evenings are pleasant. Winter supras are cozy but may lack some fresh ingredients.

Booking Your Stay

When planning your trip, consider staying in cities with vibrant food scenes. Tbilisi and Batumi are the most popular, with a wide range of hotels. Our site shows high demand for hotels in these cities; for instance, recent data indicates many visitors search for hotels in Tbilisi and Batumi. To secure a good rate, book in advance, especially during peak seasons (May-June and September-October). If you're interested in a supra experience, ask your hotel concierge if they can arrange a traditional dinner or recommend a reputable restaurant. Some hotels offer package deals that include meals, which can be convenient.

If you're traveling on a budget, consider guesthouses, which often provide home-cooked meals and a more intimate supra experience. For those seeking comfort, mid-range hotels in Tbilisi's city center or Batumi's seaside area offer easy access to restaurants. Avoid booking hotels far from the center if you plan to explore on foot; Tbilisi's old town is best explored without a car. When comparing options, look for reviews mentioning traditional food or cultural experiences. And remember, a supra is not just about eating—it's about connection, so choose accommodation that allows you to engage with locals and fellow travelers.

Questions, answered

What is a tamada and do I need one?

A tamada is the toastmaster who leads the supra. In a restaurant, your group's host often takes this role. For larger groups or special occasions, you can hire a professional tamada through some hotels or agencies, but it's not necessary for a small meal.

Is it okay to refuse alcohol at a supra?

Yes, it's acceptable to decline alcohol. Simply say "madloba" and explain politely. You can participate in toasts with water or juice. The key is to engage in the spirit of the toast rather than the drink itself.

How much does a supra cost in a restaurant?

In Tbilisi and Batumi, a restaurant supra typically costs 30-70 GEL (about $10-25) per person, depending on the venue and drinks. Homestays or guesthouses may offer supra dinners for 20-30 GEL. Prices can vary, so check menus or ask your hotel for recommendations.

← Georgia's page