Churchkhela, Tklapi and Other Georgian Snacks for the Road

What to buy, where to buy it, and how to eat like a local on buses, trails and marshrutkas between Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Batumi.

Churchkhela: the walnut string that fuels every Georgian road trip

You will see churchkhela hanging in ropes outside every market in Georgia, from the Deserter Market in Tbilisi to the farmers' stalls along the Kutaisi–Batumi road. It is walnuts threaded on a string, dipped repeatedly in thickened grape must and dried into a chewy, long-lasting bar. Prices run from about 2 to 5 lari depending on size and nut content; the best are heavy for their length and smell of concentrated grape rather than sugar. Buy them in Kakheti, especially around Telavi and Sighnaghi, where the must comes from local Rkatsiteli grapes.

For travel, churchkhela is ideal: it does not melt, does not crush easily if you keep it in a hard container, and a single bar can replace a meal on a long marshrutka ride. The texture is dense and slightly waxy; first-timers often expect candy and get something closer to a fig roll crossed with a nut bar. Eat it in small slices. In Tbilisi, the stalls inside the Deserter Market on Myasnikovi Street sell good ones, and the Kakheti highway stalls near Gurjaani are reliable. Skip the brightly coloured, soft ones in shrink wrap at airport kiosks — they are mostly sugar.

Tklapi and fruit leather: the sour counterpoint you will crave

Tklapi is the Georgian fruit leather, most often made from plum or apricot, dried in thin sheets and used both as a snack and as a souring agent in soups like kharcho. You will find it folded in squares at any bazaar; in Tbilisi's Deserter Market a folded sheet costs around 1–3 lari. The plum version is intensely tart, almost citrusy, and works well when you have been eating too much bread and cheese. Apricot tklapi is sweeter and softer, better for children or for a quick energy hit on a hike.

The best place to buy tklapi is in the regions where the fruit grows: Kakheti for plum, and the orchards around Gori and Borjomi for apricot. In Kutaisi, the central market on Shanidze Street has a good selection. Look for sheets that are still slightly pliable, not brittle, and that smell of fruit rather than dust. Tklapi keeps for months in a dry bag. I would pack a few sheets before any long drive: the Rikoti Pass between Tbilisi and Kutaisi has few good stops, and a piece of sour tklapi is a better travel companion than a chocolate bar.

Bread, cheese and the savoury snacks that actually travel well

Georgian bread is a snack in itself. The clay-oven shoti is best eaten hot, but for the road buy a whole lavash or a couple of dedas puri (mother's bread) from any bakery; they cost around 1–2 lari and stay soft for a day. Pair with sulguni, the brined cheese that ranges from rubbery to stretchy depending on freshness. In Tbilisi, the bakeries around Marjanishvili metro sell both; in Batumi, try the bread stalls near the railway station. Avoid buying sliced cheese from open-air stalls in summer unless it is kept cool — take a vacuum-packed piece instead.

For something more substantial, look for kubdari, the Svan meat-filled bread, or lobiani, the bean-filled one. Both are sold in bakeries across Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Mestia, usually for 3–6 lari. They travel better than khachapuri, which is best eaten immediately. If you are taking the overnight train from Tbilisi to Batumi, buy a lobiani and a piece of sulguni at the station bakery before boarding; the onboard options are limited. A word of warning: kubdari with heavy meat filling should not sit unrefrigerated for more than a few hours in summer.

Nuts, dried fruit and sweets: what to buy where, and what to skip

Georgia's dried fruit and nut stalls are everywhere, but quality varies. In Tbilisi, the Deserter Market is the classic stop; in Kutaisi, the Green Market near the White Bridge; in Batumi, the produce market on Chavchavadze Street. Expect to pay 10–20 lari per kilo for walnuts, 8–15 lari for dried apricots, and 12–18 lari for tklapi by weight. The best walnuts come from Kakheti and the Guria highlands. Avoid the pre-packed mixes aimed at tourists, which often contain stale nuts and added sugar.

For sweets, churchkhela gets the attention but gozinaki — honey and walnut brittle — is the better travel snack because it is compact and does not smear. A small bag costs 5–10 lari. Also look for pelamushi, a cold grape-must pudding, but note it must be eaten fresh and does not travel. In Batumi, the Adjarian sweets with walnut and honey are worth trying but are perishable. My rule: buy churchkhela and tklapi for the road, gozinaki for the hotel room, and eat pelamushi on the spot. In Tbilisi's old town, the stalls on Sioni Street are convenient but pricier than the Deserter Market.

Questions, answered

How long does churchkhela keep without refrigeration?

Churchkhela keeps for several weeks if wrapped in paper and kept dry. The sugar and tannins in the grape must act as preservatives. Avoid plastic bags, which trap moisture and make it mouldy. In summer, store it in a cool bag if possible.

Where can I buy tklapi in Tbilisi?

The Deserter Market on Myasnikovi Street has many stalls selling tklapi by the sheet or by weight. The Bazari near Marjanishvili metro is another good option. Expect to pay 1–3 lari per sheet. Buy the plum version for sourness, apricot for sweetness.

Are Georgian snacks safe to eat from street stalls?

Dry snacks like churchkhela, tklapi, nuts and gozinaki are generally safe. Avoid fresh cheese or meat-filled bread that has been sitting out in warm weather. Choose busy stalls with high turnover, and trust your judgement on cleanliness.

What snacks should I take on a long marshrutka ride?

Take churchkhela, tklapi, a whole lavash, and a piece of sulguni. These do not crush easily and provide energy. Avoid anything with a strong smell or that melts. Bring water; marshrutka stops are infrequent and often overpriced.

Can I bring churchkhela and tklapi back home?

Yes, most countries allow dried fruit and nut products for personal use, but check your destination's customs rules. Churchkhela and tklapi are shelf-stable and pack well in checked luggage. Declare them if required. Do not bring fresh fruit or cheese.

What is the difference between churchkhela and gozinaki?

Churchkhela is walnuts dipped in grape must and dried into a chewy bar. Gozinaki is a brittle made from honey and chopped walnuts, often cut into squares. Both are sweet, but gozinaki is crunchier and does not have the fruity tang of churchkhela.

Where can I find the best churchkhela in Kakheti?

The roadside stalls between Gurjaani and Sighnaghi sell some of the best, often made by local families from their own grapes. In Telavi, the central market has good options. Look for dark, heavy bars with a strong grape aroma.

Is it worth buying snacks at the airport in Tbilisi?

No, airport prices are higher and the quality is often lower. Buy your snacks in the city or along the road before you reach the airport. The Deserter Market in Tbilisi is a short taxi ride from the centre and has far better selection.

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