Bakuriani Off the Slopes: A Practical Guide to Snowy Days Without Skiing

When the lifts close or the weather turns, Bakuriani still has plenty to fill a day—here is how to plan it, from the bobsleigh track to the Kokhta trail and the steam train to Borjomi.

Bobsleigh, tubing and the Olympic legacy

Bakuriani's 2018 Olympic pedigree lives on at the Sanki sliding centre on the eastern edge of the resort, a 15-minute walk from the central roundabout. Winter sessions run most days from December to late March, when snow cover allows, and you ride as a passenger with a pilot in a four-man bob. The track is 1,300 metres of ice and the descent takes under a minute, but the queue and safety briefing stretch the visit to about 90 minutes. Book ahead at the weekend, when Tbilisi day-trippers arrive. If you want speed without the nerves, the tubing park near the Didveli base station is cheaper, more forgiving and open to children over 110 centimetres.

The flat meadow between the two main lift bases is the resort's informal playground: snowmobile circuits, horse-drawn sleigh rides and a small ice rink appear each winter depending on conditions. Prices are quoted in Georgian lari and vary; agree the fare before you set off, especially for snowmobiles, which run on marked loops near the Kokhta side. The rink is usually open from mid-December to early March. None of it is slick or particularly organised, so treat it as a bonus rather than a fixed itinerary, and check at your hotel reception for what is running that week.

Walking the Kokhta trail and the village lanes

The Kokhta plateau, reached by a chairlift from the Kokhta base or a 40-minute walk up the service road, offers the best easy snowshoeing in the area. There is a marked 3-kilometre loop through spruce forest that suits families and takes about an hour at a gentle pace; snowshoes can be rented from several guesthouses in the lower village for a modest daily rate. The view from the top station stretches to the Trialeti range on clear days. Go early, before the lifts start running at 9am, to have the trail to yourself, and bring sunglasses—the glare off the snow is fierce even when the sky is grey.

For something less structured, walk the old village lanes between Bakuriani and the neighbouring settlement of Didveli. The 19th-century dachas, built when Bakuriani was a summer retreat for Tbilisi's intelligentsia, are scattered along the road to the botanical garden, which remains open in winter and is free to enter. The garden's conifer collection looks its best under snow. It is a 20-minute walk from the central square. Combine it with a stop at the small market near the bus station, where vendors sell churchkhela, honey and local jam—useful, inexpensive souvenirs that travel well.

Day trip to Borjomi and the narrow-gauge railway

The narrow-gauge train from Bakuriani to Borjomi is the classic bad-weather escape. Departures are limited—usually one or two a day, timed around midday—and the journey takes about two hours through the snowbound gorge. Check the schedule at the station the day before, as winter services can be reduced. The carriages are basic but warm, and the route crosses the Tsemistskhali river on a series of bridges. In Borjomi, the mineral water park is a 15-minute walk from the station, and the central market is a good place for lunch. Return by taxi or marshrutka if the train does not suit; the drive back takes around 45 minutes.

If you have your own car or hire a driver, the 30-kilometre road to Bakuriani via Borjomi is usually cleared, but check conditions after heavy snowfall—the pass can close for a few hours. A half-day taxi from Bakuriani to Borjomi and back, with an hour to walk the park, is a common arrangement; agree the total fare first. Alternatively, stay put and use the time for the small local history museum near the central square, which covers the resort's 19th-century heyday and the 2018 Winter Olympics bid. It is modest but honest, and entry is inexpensive.

Where to stay and what to skip

For easy access to both lifts and the village, book in the lower village around the central roundabout, where most hotels, guesthouses and restaurants cluster within a 10-minute walk of the bus stop and the Kokhta base. The Didveli side, nearer the main ski area, suits skiers who want first tracks but is quieter in the evening. Rates in Bakuriani run from budget guesthouses to mid-range hotels with half board; peak weeks are late December to early January and Georgian school holidays in mid-January, when prices rise and rooms fill. Book at least a month ahead for those dates. The Bakuriani Inn and similar mid-range options near the park are reliable, but verify snow-clearing on the access road before booking a hillside property.

Skip the horse-drawn sleigh rides if the snow is thin—they often run on slush and are less pleasant than they look. Likewise, the snowmobile tours marketed at the lift bases are short and noisy; a guided snowshoe walk is better value. If you are travelling without a car, base yourself within walking distance of the roundabout, because taxis are scarce after dark and the roads are icy. Late February and early March offer the best combination of reliable snow cover, thinner crowds and lower room rates—I would book then rather than in the crowded New Year week.

Questions, answered

Do I need a car to enjoy Bakuriani off the slopes?

Not strictly. The central roundabout puts you within walking distance of the lifts, market and most hotels, and the Borjomi train provides a day out. A car helps for the botanical garden and Borjomi, but taxis are available for those trips.

When is the best time to visit for snow without the crowds?

Late February and early March usually combine reliable snow cover with thinner crowds and lower room rates than the New Year and mid-January school holidays. Check the snow forecast before booking, as conditions vary year to year.

Are the off-slope activities suitable for children?

Yes. Tubing, the ice rink and the Kokhta snowshoe loop suit families, though ages and height limits apply for tubing. The bobsleigh ride is not for young children. Always supervise children near the lifts and on the snow.

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