Smithfield with Kids: A Family Guide to Dublin's Old Whiskey Quarter

Smithfield suits families who want a real Dublin neighbourhood within walking distance of the centre, with a square, a cathedral and a working market on the doorstep.

What Smithfield actually is, and why it works with children

Smithfield sits on the north side of the Liffey, roughly 1.5 kilometres west of O'Connell Bridge, and it is one of the few central Dublin districts where you can still find a wide open square rather than a street of Georgian doors. The plaza in front of the old Jameson distillery building is traffic-free and flat, which matters when you are pushing a buggy or letting a seven-year-old run off steam between museum visits. The Luas Red Line stops at Smithfield itself, two stops from Jervis and about twelve minutes from Connolly, so you can reach the area with a buggy without changing trains.

Families tend to book here for one of two reasons: the price band sits below the southside Georgian hotels around St Stephen's Green, and the neighbourhood is genuinely lived-in rather than staged for visitors. You will find a Tesco Express on Bow Street and a couple of small bakeries near the square for breakfast supplies. The trade-off is that Smithfield is quieter at night than Temple Bar, which most parents will count as a benefit, and the streets heading towards Capel Street are busy with traffic at rush hour, so keep smaller children close on the crossings.

The things children actually enjoy around the square

The former Jameson distillery on Bow Street now runs as a visitor experience, and while the tour is aimed at adults, the building itself is a striking starting point and the café does a decent hot chocolate. More reliably child-friendly is the Dublin City Gallery known as the Hugh Lane on Parnell Square, about a fifteen-minute walk east, which is free and has a sculpture garden. Closer still, the Cobblestone on King Street North runs traditional music sessions; check timing before you go, as evening sessions run late, but an early-evening weekend session is a memorable hour for older children.

St Michan's Church on Church Street, five minutes from the square, is famous for its vaults, and the guided tour is short enough to hold attention. Note that the crypts involve dark, confined spaces and may not suit nervous younger children. The Garden of Remembrance on Parnell Square is a calm grassy spot for a picnic. For a wet afternoon, the Ilac Centre on Henry Street, ten minutes away, has a library and shopping under cover. I would skip the broader Smithfield retail park on the north side if you are on foot with children; it is a functional strip, not a destination.

Getting around, and how Smithfield connects to the rest of the city

The Luas Red Line is the single best reason to base a family in Smithfield. From the Smithfield stop you reach Jervis in four minutes, Abbey Street in eight, and Connolly Station and the IFSC in about twelve, with step-free access at the main stops. The Green Line interchange is at O'Connell GPO, a short walk from Abbey Street. Dublin Bus routes along Church Street and North King Street connect towards Heuston Station, which is useful if you are arriving by train from the west or heading to Kilmainham Gaol and the Royal Hospital grounds, both about ten minutes by bus or a thirty-minute walk.

Driving into Smithfield is straightforward from the M50 via the N3, but parking is limited and expensive, with the multi-storey off Queen Street being the most practical option. Most families are better off without a car. Distances are short: O'Connell Street is a fifteen-minute walk, Trinity College about twenty-five, and Dublin Castle roughly twenty. The Phoenix Park, with its playgrounds and the zoo, is a thirty-minute walk west or a short bus ride. Allow more time than the map suggests, because small legs and buggies slow everything down, especially on the cobbled stretches near Bow Street.

Where to stay, and when to come

Hotel stock in Smithfield is limited compared with the southside, so families often choose between the apartments and aparthotels around the square and the larger hotels clustered towards Capel Street and Parnell Street. Apartments with a kitchen are a real advantage with children, and the price band generally sits below comparable southside properties, though self-catering apartments carry minimum-stay rules in summer. If you want a pool or a family room with a sofa bed, you will find more choice a short Luas ride away near Connolly and the IFSC. My advice is to book a Smithfield apartment for stays of three nights or more, and a hotel closer to O'Connell Street for short breaks.

Spring and early autumn are the kindest months for a family visit: May and June bring long evenings and the best chance of dry weather for the Phoenix Park, while September still feels mild and the city is less crowded than in July and August. December is atmospheric but dark by half four, which limits outdoor time with small children. Avoid St Patrick's weekend if you dislike crowds, as the parade route around O'Connell Street fills quickly. Prices in Dublin hotels rise sharply during major event weekends, so book early and check the Luas timetable against your arrival time.

Questions, answered

Is Smithfield a good area to stay in Dublin with children?

Yes, for families who value space and quiet over nightlife. The square is traffic-free, the Luas Red Line connects to the centre in minutes, and apartments with kitchens are common. It is less polished than the southside but practical and central.

How far is Smithfield from O'Connell Street?

About a fifteen-minute walk east along Henry Street or via Capel Street. The Luas Red Line covers the same route in roughly eight minutes from Smithfield to Abbey Street, which is easier with a buggy or tired children.

What is there to do with kids near Smithfield?

The Garden of Remembrance, the Hugh Lane gallery on Parnell Square, St Michan's Church vaults and the Cobblestone's early music sessions are all within fifteen minutes. The Phoenix Park is a short bus ride west for playgrounds and the zoo.

Do I need a car if I stay in Smithfield?

No. Parking is limited and costly, and the Luas plus walking covers most of central Dublin. Use the multi-storey off Queen Street if you must drive, and take the bus or train for day trips to Howth or Malahide.

When is the best time to visit Dublin with children?

May, June and September offer the best balance of mild weather, long daylight and manageable crowds. July and August are busiest and priciest, while December is dark early, which limits time outdoors with younger children.

Are there family rooms and apartments in Smithfield?

The area has more apartments and aparthotels than traditional family hotel rooms, which suits longer stays with a kitchen. For pools and sofa-bed rooms, look near Connolly and the IFSC, a short Luas ride east.

How do I get from Dublin Airport to Smithfield?

Take the Aircoach or Dublin Bus route towards the city centre and change to the Luas Red Line, or take a taxi, which is usually the simplest option with luggage and children. Allow around thirty to forty-five minutes depending on traffic.

Is Smithfield safe for families at night?

The square and main streets are busy and well lit in the early evening, and the area is quieter than Temple Bar. As in any city centre, stick to main routes after dark, keep younger children close on crossings, and avoid isolated side streets late at night.

← Dublin City's page