Smithfield in November: Markets, Music and a Pint of Plain

Dublin's old fruit market district trades summer crowds for winter warmth — here's what's on.

The market and the square

November is a quiet month for tourism in Dublin, which means you can actually enjoy Smithfield without queueing for a coffee. The Luas Red Line stops at Smithfield, a two-minute walk from the square, and from Connolly Station it's a 15-minute walk or a five-minute taxi. The square itself is anchored by the Light House Cinema and the Generator hostel, but the real draw on a cold Saturday is the Dublin Flea Market in the old fruit market building on Newmarket Square, held on the last Sunday of the month from 11am to 5pm. Expect vintage clothes, records and hot food stalls; bring cash as not every trader takes cards.

The Cobblestone pub on King Street North is the other reason to be here in November. Its back room hosts traditional music sessions most nights, and on Sundays there's a daytime session from 3pm. It's a small, warm room with no television and no fuss — arrive early if you want a seat. If you're booking a hotel, aim for the streets between Smithfield Square and Stoneybatter: you'll be within a ten-minute walk of both the market and the music, and rates in November are typically lower than the Christmas peak.

Where to stay and what to skip

Smithfield has a handful of hotels and guesthouses, mostly clustered around the square and along North King Street. The area is well served by the Luas, with trams every five to seven minutes to Connolly, Busáras and the city centre. If you want a quieter stay, look at Stoneybatter, the low-rise neighbourhood immediately north — it has a village feel, a handful of small hotels and guesthouses, and good cafés along Manor Street. Avoid the streets directly off the square's south side, which can be noisy at closing time on weekends.

Skip the tourist-heavy Temple Bar if you want a local pint; it's a 20-minute walk or a short taxi. Instead, try the pubs on King Street North and Manor Street, where a pint of stout will cost less and the conversation is better. For a daytime walk, the National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts & History at Collins Barracks is a ten-minute stroll east and free to enter; its collection of Irish silver and furniture is a good rainy-day option. In November, daylight fades by 4:30pm, so plan outdoor activities for the morning.

Eating and drinking in the cold

Smithfield's food scene is small but solid. For breakfast, try the cafés on Queen Street or the weekend brunch at Third Space on Smithfield Square — expect queues after 10am. Lunch options include the pho and banh mi at Vietnom on King Street North, or a sandwich from the deli counter at the Spar on Manor Street. In the evening, the pubs serve decent bar food: the Cobblestone does a good toastie, and the Walsh Family pub on Stoneybatter's Manor Street has a reliable fish and chips. None of these are fancy, but they're honest and warm.

For a sit-down dinner, book ahead at one of the small restaurants on Stoneybatter's Manor Street or Brunswick Street North. In November, many places offer early-bird menus before 7pm, which can be good value. The area isn't a culinary destination, so manage expectations: this is comfort food territory, not fine dining. If you want a wider choice, walk 15 minutes to Capel Street, where you'll find everything from Korean to Italian. After dinner, the Light House Cinema often screens independent films; check its listings for November releases.

Practicalities and timing

November weather in Dublin is typically cool and damp, with temperatures between 4°C and 10°C and frequent rain. Pack a waterproof jacket and comfortable shoes; the streets around Smithfield are cobbled in places and uneven. The Luas Red Line runs from roughly 5:30am to 12:30am, with night services on Fridays and Saturdays until 2am. A Leap Visitor Card gives unlimited travel on Luas, Dart and Dublin Bus for 1, 3 or 7 days; buy it at the airport or online before you arrive.

If you're planning a weekend visit, check the dates for the Dublin Flea Market and any music events at the Cobblestone. November also brings the Dublin Book Festival and the Science Gallery's exhibitions, though these are city-wide rather than Smithfield-specific. For a quiet trip, book a hotel in Smithfield or Stoneybatter and use the Luas to explore the rest of the city. Avoid the last weekend of November if you dislike crowds, as Christmas shopping begins in earnest and hotel rates rise accordingly.

Questions, answered

Is Smithfield a good area to stay in Dublin?

Yes, if you want a quieter base with good transport. The Luas Red Line connects Smithfield to the city centre in under 10 minutes, and November rates are lower than the Christmas peak. It suits travellers who prefer local pubs over tourist traps.

What is there to do in Smithfield in November?

The Dublin Flea Market runs on the last Sunday of the month, and the Cobblestone pub hosts traditional music sessions most nights. The Light House Cinema shows independent films, and the National Museum at Collins Barracks is free and a short walk away.

How do I get to Smithfield from Dublin Airport?

Take the 747 or 757 bus to the city centre, then the Luas Red Line to Smithfield. Alternatively, a taxi takes about 25 minutes depending on traffic. The Luas stop is a two-minute walk from the square.

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