Thonburi Temples by Boat: A Calm Day Across the River

Cross the Chao Phraya to the west bank for canal-side temples, a fraction of the crowds and a slow half-day that costs little more than the ferry fare.

Why the west bank feels different

Most first-time visitors cluster on Rattanakosin, the island of grand temples east of the Chao Phraya, and never cross to Thonburi. That is a mistake worth correcting. Thonburi was a separate city until 1971 and still runs at a different tempo: khlongs rather than six-lane roads, stilt houses, temple roofs behind banana trees. The best way to see it is on water, not in a taxi. The Chao Phraya Express Boat to Tha Chang or Tha Tien connects with cross-river ferries from several piers, and the crossing itself takes under five minutes.

Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, is the obvious anchor and the most crowded stop on the west bank — go at 8am or after 4pm, when tour groups thin and the light on the porcelain-mosaic prangs is best. A short walk south along Arun Amarin Road brings you to Wat Rakhang, quieter and still an active monastic community. The prang climb at Wat Arun is steep and the steps are worn; anyone with knee trouble should enjoy it from the terrace instead and save their legs for the khlong boats.

The khlong long-tail route

The classic Thonburi canal trip starts at Tha Chang pier on the east bank, where long-tail boats can be chartered for a loop through Khlong Bangkok Noi and Khlong Mon. You are paying for the boat, not per person, so four to six passengers makes it worthwhile; solo travellers do better joining a small group at the pier. The run takes two to three hours depending on stops and how much you linger. There is no fixed timetable and no advance booking — turn up, agree the route and the duration in advance, and confirm whether temple stops are included.

Along Khlong Bangkok Noi you pass the Royal Barge National Museum, where the ceremonial barges are kept, and Wat Suwannaram, whose ordination hall holds some of the finest early Rattanakosin murals in the city. Both are low-key, cheap and rarely busy on weekday mornings. The canal is tidal in places, and at low water some stretches smell of the riverbed — a small price for a route no coach tour can follow. Mornings from November to February are the coolest and driest months for this, and the light is better for photographs.

Getting there and what it costs

From hotels in Sukhumvit, Silom or Siam, the quickest route is the BTS Skytrain to Saphan Taksin and the Chao Phraya Express Boat north to Tha Tien; allow 40 to 60 minutes door to pier, and note that the orange-flag boats are faster but skip some piers. From Khao San and Rattanakosin, it is a short walk to Tha Chang or Tha Tien. A cross-river ferry is a few baht, the express boat fare is under 20 baht depending on distance and flag, and a chartered long-tail boat for a half-day sits in the low thousands of baht for the whole group. Carry small notes.

Temple entry fees on the west bank are modest — Wat Arun charges a small admission, most neighbourhood temples ask for nothing or a donation. Dress code applies everywhere: cover shoulders and knees, and remove shoes inside halls. Combine the boat loop with a late lunch near Wang Lang market, opposite Siriraj Hospital, where the food stalls are cheap and excellent. If you only have time for one thing, I would book a hotel near Saphan Taksin or in Riverside and do the cross-river ferry to Wat Arun at opening time, then walk to Wat Rakhang.

Where to stay and what to skip

Staying riverside makes the whole day effortless. The Riverside and Charoen Krung corridor, from Saphan Taksin up to Chinatown, puts you on the express boat line and gives evening river views without a taxi. Thonburi itself has quieter, cheaper options along Arun Amarin Road and near Wongwian Yai BTS, but the trade-off is fewer restaurants within walking distance and longer hops back to the centre. For a three-night stay with temple plans, I would book Riverside: you gain hours of transit time and lose only a little atmosphere.

Skip the floating-market day trips sold on Khao San Road — they leave before dawn, drive two hours each way and deliver you to the same canal you can reach from the city in twenty minutes. Skip the dinner cruises if you want calm; the boats are crowded and the temples are unlit. Do not attempt the khlong loop in the middle of the afternoon in April, when heat and haze are at their worst. March to May is hot and smoky; November to February is the season to plan around.

Questions, answered

How long does the boat to Wat Arun take from the east bank?

The cross-river ferry from Tha Tien pier to Wat Arun takes under five minutes and runs frequently through the day. It is the shortest and cheapest crossing in the area, and you pay in cash at the pier. Allow extra time for queues at sunset.

Can I visit Thonburi temples without joining a tour?

Yes. The cross-river ferries and express boats are public services, and the temples are open to individual visitors. Walking between Wat Arun and Wat Rakhang is straightforward along Arun Amarin Road; a map or offline app helps on the smaller sois where signs are in Thai script.

Is a long-tail boat charter worth it?

For a group of four or more, yes — the price is per boat and covers two to three hours through Khlong Bangkok Noi and Khlong Mon, passing Wat Suwannaram and the Royal Barge museum. Agree the duration and stops at the pier before boarding, and pay at the end.

What should I wear to the temples?

Shoulders and knees covered, no sleeveless tops, and shoes removed before entering ordination halls. A light scarf helps. Wat Arun enforces the dress code at the entrance and does not lend clothing reliably, so arrive prepared rather than buying a wrap on the spot at inflated prices.

Which months are best for a canal day?

November through February brings cooler, drier weather and clearer photographs. March to May is hot, hazy and less comfortable on open boats. The rainy season from June to October brings short afternoon downpours; mornings are usually fine and the canals are greener.

How do I get to Thonburi from Sukhumvit?

Take the BTS Skytrain to Saphan Taksin, then the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Tha Tien or Tha Chang, and cross by ferry. Allow 40 to 60 minutes door to pier, more at rush hour. Taxis across the river are slower and fare meters are often refused.

Where can I eat near Wat Arun?

Wang Lang market, opposite Siriraj Hospital and a short ferry ride or walk from the temple, has cheap and reliable food stalls, plus coffee shops. On the east bank, the lanes around Tha Tien and Maharat Road have small restaurants; prices rise close to the temple entrance.

Should I stay in Thonburi or on the east bank?

For a short trip with temple plans, stay Riverside or Charoen Krung on the east bank — better transport, more dining, easy boat access. Thonburi near Wongwian Yai suits longer stays and travellers who value quiet over convenience.

← bangkok's page