3 Days in Ayutthaya: Temples, Ruins and River Views

Ayutthaya's temple-dotted island, 80 km north of Bangkok, rewards a three-day stay with dawn ruins, longtail river trips and crab-fat rice noodles.

Day 1: The Island's Greatest Hits

Start at Wat Phra Si Sanphet, the royal chapel inside the Ayutthaya Historical Park, where three restored chedis stand on a plinth of brick. Arrive by 8am; tour buses from Bangkok roll in around 10. Entrance is 50 baht for foreigners, or 220 baht for a combined ticket covering six sites. From there walk five minutes to Wat Mongkhon Bophit, which shelters a large bronze Buddha, then cross the road to Wat Phra Mahathat, famous for the Buddha head framed by tree roots. Keep a respectful distance when photographing it.

Lunch near Naresuan Road: kuay teow ruea, the small bowls of boat noodles, or miang pla, fermented fish wrapped in leaves. Afternoon: Wat Ratchaburana, whose crypt murals are the oldest in the city, and Wat Thammikarat, with its ring of damaged lion statues. Rent a bicycle for about 50 baht a day or a tuk-tuk for roughly 300 baht an hour. Sunset at Wat Chaiwatthanaram, across the river on the west bank, is the best light of the day. Get there by 5:30pm; the site closes at 6:30pm.

Day 2: River, Countryside and a Foreign Quarter

Spend the morning on the water. Longtail boat trips leave from the pier near Chantharakasem National Museum, costing around 700–1,200 baht for a one-hour loop that passes Wat Phanan Choeng and the Portuguese settlement. You will see stilt houses, monitor lizards and, in November, the start of the cool season. Back on land, cycle north to Wat Lokayasutharam, a 42-metre reclining Buddha in the open air, and then to Wat Na Phra Men, which survived the 1767 Burmese sack and still has its original roof structure.

In the afternoon, cross to the east bank and explore the Japanese settlement memorial and the Dutch settlement, quiet spots with explanatory signs. The Chao Phrom market, near the railway station, is good for Thai desserts such as khanom buang and fresh coconut ice cream. If you want a hotel with river views, the area around U Thong Road and the ferry pier at Hua Ro has several mid-range options; book a room facing the water rather than the street, and expect to pay more on weekends. Skip the night market if you have an early start; it is mostly clothing and phone accessories.

Day 3: Bang Pa-In, Museums and the Train Back

Take a songthaew or a taxi 20 km south to Bang Pa-In Royal Palace, a 17th-century summer residence rebuilt in the 19th century with Thai, Chinese and European pavilions. The grounds are immaculate; entry is 100 baht, and you must cover shoulders and knees. Allow two hours. Combine this with Wat Niwet Thammaprawat, a Gothic-style temple across the river, reached by a small cable car. From Bang Pa-In, the train back to Bangkok's Hua Lamphong or Krung Thep Aphiwat takes about an hour and costs under 50 baht in third class.

If you have a late departure, spend the morning in Ayutthaya at the Chantharakasem National Museum, which explains the city's trade links with Japan, China and Europe, then walk to the Ayutthaya Historical Study Centre for models of the old city. For a final meal, try the riverfront restaurants on the west bank opposite Wat Phutthaisawan; they serve whole fried fish and tom yum. Best months are November to February, when temperatures drop to around 22°C at night. March to May is hot, with highs near 38°C; April is the hottest.

Where to Stay and What to Skip

Most visitors base themselves on the island, within walking distance of the Historical Park. Budget guesthouses cluster around Soi Farang, near Naresuan Road, with fan rooms and shared bathrooms. Mid-range hotels with pools sit along U Thong Road and Rojana Road, a short tuk-tuk ride from the ruins. If you want river views, look at the west bank near Wat Chaiwatthanaram, but you will need a ferry or a long detour each time you cross. I would book a hotel on the east side of the island, near the night market and the ferry pier, because you can walk to dinner and still reach the park by bicycle in 10 minutes.

What to skip: the elephant rides offered near some ruins; they are not part of the historical experience and the animals' welfare is a concern. Also skip the floating market at Bang Sai if you are short on time; it is a 45-minute drive from the city and largely a craft market. The sound-and-light show at Wat Chaiwatthanaram runs on selected evenings in the cool season and is worth checking locally, but do not plan your whole trip around it. For the best photographs, go to Wat Chaiwatthanaram at opening time, 8am, when the light is soft and few people are there.

Questions, answered

How do I get from Bangkok to Ayutthaya?

Trains from Krung Thep Aphiwat (Bang Sue) take 60–90 minutes and cost from 20 baht. Minivans leave from Mo Chit and take about 90 minutes in good traffic. Private taxis cost around 1,000–1,500 baht. The train is the most comfortable and scenic option.

Do I need to book a hotel in advance?

Yes, especially from November to February, when weekend rooms on the island fill up. Booking ahead gives you a choice of river-view or pool rooms. If you are flexible, mid-week stays offer better rates and quieter ruins.

What should I wear at the temples?

Cover your shoulders and knees. A light scarf or sarong works for both men and women. Remove your shoes before entering any building with a Buddha image. Hats and sunglasses are fine outdoors but should be removed inside.

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